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FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



FERRET FACTS AND 
FANCIES 



A Book of Practical Instructions on 

Breeding, Raising, Handling and 

Selling; Also Their Uses 

and Fur Value 



BY 

A. R. HARDING 



PUBLISHED BY 

R. HARDiNG 

COLUMBUS, OHIO 



n^A\ 



^^>^ 



Copyright 1915 

By 

A. R. HARDING. 



ftUG 23 iai5 



CONTENTS. 

Chapter. page. 

I. History and Description 15 

II. Ferretville 25 

III. Hutches and Nests 33 

IV. Barns and Sheds 42 

V. Feeding and Management 52 

VI. Breeding 61 

VII. Handling and Training 76 

VIII. Rats 82 

IX. Ferrets and Rats 95 

X. Ferrets and Rabbits 103 

XI. Ferrets and Ground Squirrels, Gophers, 

Prairie Dogs 112 

XII. Ferrets and Mink, Skunk, Raccoon, Etc 119 

XIII. Ferret Contrivances 128 

XIV. Letters from Raisers 135 

XV. The Ferret in Belgium, Europe 149 

XVI. Ferret Raising in a Small Way 154 

XVII. Ferret Raising as a Business 161 

XVIII. How to Sell Ferrets 170 

XIX. Ferrets as Fur Bearers 177 

XX. Ferrets — A to Z 186 

XXI. Diseases of Ferrets 199 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 



PAGE. 

The Two Varieties of Ferrets Frontispiece 

White and Brown or Dark Ferrets 16 

Ferrets are Easily Tamed and Handled 23 

Bird's Eye View of Held & Anderson's Ferret Farm. . . 30 

Mother, Young and Nest Box 34 

Summer Hutches of a Northern Raiser 38 

Ferret Shed and Hutches — An Iowa Raiser 40 

End View of Ferret Barn or Shed 44 

Bird's Eye View of Chamberlain Bros'. Ferret Farm... 46 

Cook House and Three Ferret Barns 48 

One of Ralph Woods/ First or Summer Pens 50 

Interior View of an Up-to-Date Cook House 53 

Interior View of one of Chamberlain Bros'. Ferret Barns 56 

Feeding Pans 58 

Breeding Box or Nest for Mother and Young 63 

Side View of One of Held & Anderson's Barns 68 

Correct Way to Hold a Ferret 78 

Illinois Raiser Handling Ferrets 80 

Some Good Ratters 88 

Females and Their Young 92 

Ferret Harnessed and Muzzled Chasing Rat 101 

Catching Rat and Ferret in Double Cage 102 

Hunting Rabbits with Dog, Ferret and Gun 105 

Where Rabbits are a Nuisance 108 

The Wild or Black Footed Ferret 113 

Squirrels — Pests of the Western F: rmer 117 

Large Old Ferret 120 

9 



10 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

Some Large, Strong Ferrets — The Kind for Fur 

Animals , 124 

A Good Rabbit Net 130 

The Old-fashioned Muzzle 181 

Adjustable Muzzle for Ferrets 132 

Harness for Ferrets 133 

Winter Ferret House 139 

Pen for Female and Young 146 

An Eastern White Ferret 151 

Summer or Outdoor Pens 157 

Shipping Crates 165 

vShipping Ferrets — On Way to Express Office 173 

The European Fitch — Brown 178 

The European Fitch — White 179 

The Common Brown Weasel 180 

Some Nice Furry American Ferrets 181 

A Bunch of Contented Ferrets 187 

Two Old Ferrets at Breakfast 191 

Large Outside Pen or Run for Ferrets 196 



INTRODUCTION. 



no business of the importance of the ferret 
industry has received so little attention 
and notice especially from the press. 
Fur Raising, Ginseng and Golden Seal 
Culture, Game Growing, Fish Culture have all 
been given a good deal of attention from news- 
papers, magazines and books upon the several 
industries as well as publications devoted en- 
tirely to these special lines. Although the ferret 
industry, in America, is really yet in its infancy 
the business is of much more importance than 
generally realized. Perhaps there is no better 
way to illustrate the extent to which even now 
ferrets are raised, sold and used than to call 
especial attention to Chapter II — Ferretville. 

Ferrets are a domesticated wild animal. I 
have seen more than one raiser pick up, with 
bare hand, old ferrets, handling or wooling them 
around. The ferrets apparently enjoying it. At 
the approach of the owner or raiser they usually 
come to him, or as close as the wdre screen will 
allow, jumping up or clinging to the wire and 
otherwise showing their friendliness. 

11 



12 INTRODUCTION. 

At the present time ferrets are mostly used 
to exterminate rats and for rabbit hunting. For 
rat»s they are much used in barns, granaries, 
grain elevators, mills, stores, levees, walls, ships 
or any place where rats are. If rightly used and 
handled there is no better or quicker way to rid 
a place of the pests. Where rabbits are doing an 
injury to fruit trees, etc., ferrets can be used to 
advantage. Ferrets are also used to some ex- 
tent on the large Western ground squirrels, 
gophers and prairie dogs. Some success has also 
been had in using on mink, skunk, coon and 
other fur-bearing animals. 

The ferret is very similar to the fitch, an 
European animal, that furnishes tens of thou- 
sands of skins to the fur trade annually. In 
Europe the ferret is sometimes called fitch-ferret 
where-by many claimed to be half fitch. Some 
dealers in American furs class ferret skins as 
"halves" — half ferret, half fitch — and buy on 
that basis. At the present time the fur value of 
the ferret pelt is but little, yet the time is not far 
in the future when it, no doubt, will be much 
more valuable. 

Kaising ferrets, like most other lines of busi- 
ness, is profitable for those who are familiar with 
the nature and habits of the animal, but is apt to 
prove otherwise for those who know nothing 



INTRODUCTION. 13 

about it. Information, in this book, was gatli- 
ered from visiting some of the largest ferret 
colonies as well as correspondence with many 
others who raise thousands down to those who 
raise a very few. 



FERRET 
FACTS AND FANCIES. 



CHAPTER I. 

HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION. 

CHE ferret is a native of Africa. The animal 
was first domesticated in the northern 
part of that continent, by the Egyptians, 
hundreds of years ago. Long after its 
first domestication it was taken across the) Medi- 
terranean Sea and introduced into Europe, from 
which continent it has spread to many part of 
the civilized world. The first ferrets' in America 
came from Spain, one of the divisions of 
Southern Europe. Just the exact date that it 
was brought across the Atlantic Ocean is not 
known but it was not until late in the nineteenth 
century, probably about the year 1875. The 
animal has proven useful and beneficial when 
rightly used. 

There are two varieties — white and dark or 
brown. The white variety is called Albino or 
English. It has a somewhat yellowish-white coat 
of fur and hair and pink eyes. The other variety, 

15 



16 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



dark or brown, is known as the Fitch-ferret. It 
has dark eyes and is said to be the result of a 
cross between the Fitch, a European animal, and 
the white or common ferret. 

Ferrets belong to the Mustelidae family. 
Marten, weasel, European polecat ( don't confuse 
with American skunk or civet cat, for they are 





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WHITE AND BROWN OR DARK FERRETS. 



of an entirely different family) are close mem- 
bers of the same family, while allied ( if not more 
distant relatives) are otter, badger and skunk. 
All animals of this species are pretty much the 
same in form, habits and nature. Ferrets have 
short legs, elongated, muscular and lithe bodies ; 
they are blood-thirsty, determined of purpose 
and relentless; hardy and prolific breeders, 
rather short lived, habits clean. Like all of the 



HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION. 17 

weasel (mustelidae) family they are possessed 
of a foul odor which they can secrete or produce 
at will. They, however, are not foul smelling 
unless roughly handled. 

The ferret, according to Chambers' Encyclo- 
pedia, is an animal of the weasel family so nearly 
allied to the Fitch, known as Polecat in the Old 
World, that many regard it as a mere domesti- 
cated variety. It is of rather small size, the 
head and body being about fourteen inches long, 
the tail five inches and a half, the muzzle rather 
longer and more pointed, the head rather nar- 
rower and the color is very different, being yel- 
lowish, with more or less of white in some parts, 
there being two kinds of hair, the longer partly 
white, the shorter yellow. The eyes are pink. It 
is, however, much more susceptible to cold than 
the polecat and requires careful protection from 
it in climates where the polecat is a hardy native. 
It was imported into Europe from Africa and was 
well known to the Komans, being anciently em- 
ployed, as it still is, in catching rabbits, for 
which purpose it is often sent into their burrows 
muzzled, or ^^coped" by means of a piece of 
string, to drive them out into nets, or, with a 
string attached to it, it is allowed to seize the 
rabbit in the burrows and then it is drawn out, 
holding it fast. 



18 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

The usual plan, however, is to let the ferret 
have free range of rabbit holes unmuzzled, the 
rabbits being shot as they bolt. Attention to 
warmth and cleanliness is essential to the health 
of ferrets. They are capable only of partial 
domestication, acquiring a kind of familiarity 
with man and submitting with perfect quietness 
to his handling, but apparently never forming 
any very decided attachment, and they never 
cease to be dangerous if not carefully watched, 
especially where infants are within their reach. 
If allowed any measure of freedom, they are 
ready to attack poultry and kill far more than 
they can devour, merely sucking the blood. They 
generally breed twice a year, each brood consist- 
ing of six to nine. The female sometimes de- 
vours the young ones, in which case another 
brood is speedily produced. 

It has been domesticated and raised in con- 
finement a great many years. It is a favorite 
animal among the English farmers, where a few 
are kept and raised on nearly every farm for the 
purpose of keeping the rats away. This custom 
has been practiced in England for a good many 
years and many farmers of today do not consider 
their farm properly equipped without a stock of 
ferrets. Since being brought to this country, 
their standard has been raised a great deal 



HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION. 19 

higher by giving due attention to the selection 
of the breeding stock and by careful mating of 
the same. The ferret of today, as bred and raised 
in America, is a slim, very muscular animal and 
can kill animals much larger than itself. It 
resembles the mink or weasel in shape and size, 
having a long, slim body, small head and pointed 
nose. Having a very flexible bod}^, it can enter 
very small holes and follow rats in the most 
difficult places. As already stated, ihej are of 
two colors, white and brown. Tliere is no differ- 
ence in the two varieties as to their breeding and 
working qualities. It is only a matter of fancy 
as to color. They are hardy, strong animals and 
breed well in any climate. The average life for 
the ferret is from six to nine years. The breed- 
ing season is from March to September. One 
female will sometimes raise from ten to twelve 
young in one year, sometimes having two litters 
or even more, but usually less. The ferret will 
not breed until the following spring. She must 
be one year old. 

In Europe, like America, they are mainly used 
for rat and rabbit hunting. This animal, accord- 
ing to naturalists, is merely a variety of the pole- 
cat, modified by effect of long continued cap- 
tivity. Readers must not associate the polecat 
here alluded to, which is found only in Europe, 



20 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

with the American skunk or civet cat, as it in no 
way resembles these animals. Fitchet or Fitch 
Cat, is the name given to the animal throughout 
much of Europe. The pelt or fur is known to the 
fur trade as fitch and can be described as consist- 
ing of a woolly, yellow under fur, showing 
through longer, glossy dark hairs. In the Kus- 
sian skins the under fur is almost white. The 
body of this animal is about seventeen inches 
long and the tail six. The fur is of value and 
thousands are used each season. 

Ferrets, as bred and raised in this country, 
will average around fifteen inches in length of 
body and tail five. They weigh up to three 
pounds but the average will be nearer a pound 
and one-half. In parts of the West there is a 
species known as the black footed ferret. They 
often live in prairie dog holes and in some locali- 
ties have about exterminated the prairie dog. 
This species is very similar to the brown or dark, 
other than its feet are black. While found in 
several Western states, it is not plentiful enough, 
except in a few localities, to be a menace to 
prairie dogs and other pests. 

The Eastern states, such as Pennsylvania, 
New York and the New England states are all 
buyers of ferrets for rabbit hunting. In fact, 
most all rough or rocky states are users of the 



HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION. 21 

ferret. Many farmers, ranchers, gardeners, etc., 
especially west of the Mississippi, write ferret 
owners asking if they have animals that will kill 
ground squirrels and other pests. Reliable ferret 
raisers generally recommend best results only 
for rats or rabbits. Some claim their ferrets will 
drive out skunk, mink, ground squirrels and 
other small animals. While the ferret is natu- 
rall}^ a fighter, yet their size and strength is lim- 
ited. Certain animals have a natural dread of 
the ferret and seek to escape. If several ferrets 
were put in dens they might rout the animal, yet 
rats and rabbits are the two on which they are 
the most used, as both are afraid of the ferret. 

Ferrets have a large field to work in ; they are 
used on vessels and around wharfs, in mills, ele- 
vators, cellars, by farmers, sportsmen and poul- 
try breeders. The cities and country are over-run 
with rats and the only way to get rid of them is 
to ferret them out. They are also used by sports- 
men for hunting rabbits, mink, muskrat and 
other game. Buy a pair of ferrets and clear your 
place of rats. For rabbit hunting you will find 
them the best paying investment you ever made. 
They are also used on ground squirrels, gophers 
and prairie dogs. 

The saying "ferret it out" is surely applicable 
to the four-footed ferret for they can "ferret out" 



22 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

not only animals much larger and powerful than 
themselves but are able to enter any den or hole 
that a rat can, especially the small sized ferret 
can enter an}^ rat den. 

Although ferrets (as the animals are called 
and best known in this country) are native of a 
warm country — Africa — they can be raised in 
nearly all parts of America, the exceptions being 
parts of Alaska, Northern Canada and the colder 
and high mountain sections of the United States. 
Some raisers are inclined to think that the brown 
variety, wherever raised, have the stronger eyes 
as more of the white kind apparently go blind or 
suffer from weak eyes than of the brown variety. 
Ferrets that are handled a great deal gen- 
erally become quite " tame. The animal is pos- 
sessed of more intelligence than usually known. 
Those kept and handled for months are apt to 
become so tame that they will not leave even 
when given freedom but are on hand at feeding 
time. In several instances ferrets and cats have 
been known to eat from same dish. Others be- 
come so attached to their owner, that they are at 
his heels much of the time, when he is around the 
premises. A boy, near Chicago, had a 2-year-old 
ferret that followed him one evening for miles. 
Just after dark he started to walk to a place, 
nearly three miles, on an errand. The errand 



HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION. 



23 




FERRETS ARE EASILY TAMED AND HANDLED. 



24 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

done, which required about ten minutes, he 
started for home when he met the ferret follow- 
ing on his trail or track, nearly three miles dis- 
tance. It showed its appreciation quickly when 
picked up. All know how a dog becomes attached 
to his master. It seems ferrets have same fond- 
ness, at least to some extent. As ferrets hunt by 
scent and are a keen scented little animal it is 
not hard to understand liow one might become 
attached to and trail its owner. 




CHAPTER II. 

FERRETVILI.E. 

FERRETVILLE, or possibly 
best known by the name of New 
London, is located 47 miles 
southwest of Cleveland, Ohio, 
on thei Clevelland, Cincinnati, 
Chicago & St. Louis and North- 
ern Ohio railroads. The town 
had a population of 1,557 according to the 1910 
census, with approximately the same now, being 
only an average Ohio town for general business 
and thrift. Among the industries may be men- 
tioned banks, brick yards, tile works, flour mills, 
butter and cheese factory, regalia manufactur- 
ing, newspaper, stores, garages and other indus- 
tries of more or less importance. The country 
surrounding "Ferretville' is largely devoted to 
grain, growing, dairy interests and stock raising, 
not overlooking the ferret breeder and raiser. 

The ferret business in America was first 
launched by Henry Farnsworth, at Rochester, a 
little village of some 200 inhabitants, a few miles 
northeast of New London. Realizing a few years 
later that it could be developed into quite an 

25 



20 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

iiulnstry, with his three sons, Levi, Samuel and 
Ezra, they moved the business to near New Lon- 
(h)n, where the breeding and raising was carried 
on, on a more extensive scale, raising and selling 
several hundred if not thousands yearly for 
some time. Later one of the sons married, an- 
otlier moved (who followed raising for a time) 
but for some years past none of these Farns- 
worths have been regularly in the business. 

Among those who engaged in the business 
during the early days were : N. A. Knapp, O. E. 
Hemenway, K. J. and Will Wood, George Zarker, 
Kiefer Bros., Olin Washburn, and Clayton Dim- 
ick. Some of these perhaps looked upon the in- 
dustry as a get-rich-quick method, for after a few 
years with more or less success, most of these 
raisers dropped out. Others, however, went into 
the raising, not only in and around New London, 
but in other towns such as Rochester, Green- 
wich, Wellington, Ashland, in fact many towns 
and villages in Huron, Lorain, Ashland,, Rich- 
land and other nearby counties, but New London 
became and still is the center of the industry. 
Within a radius of ten miles of New London, 
half of the ferrets in America are probably 
raised. 

New London (Ferretville) is pretty well ad- 
vertised throughout America as the village where 



FERRETVILLE. 27 

ferrets are raised by thousands. While the in- 
dustry is one where the demand will probably 
remain under 200,000 yearly for rat and rabbit 
purposes, yet as the tens of thousands sold an- 
nually go to all parts of America, it puts Ferret- 
ville upon the map, so to speak, far and wide. 

Gradually, the importance and volume of 
business being done in ferrets in Northern Ohio 
was noted by enterprising people elsewhere, who 
began raising them. The industry spread to 
other parts of Ohio, also to other states, and 
even west of the Mississippi Kiver. So many, 
however, took to raising them at New London, 
only a few miles from where the Farnsworths 
were so successful, that that locality produces 
about one-half of the total number raised in 
North America. It bids fair to continue doing 
so. 

During the spring of 1915 there was prob- 
ably a dozen breeders in and near New London, 
who had from fifty to five hundred females. At 
that time Held & Anderson had the greatest 
number, five hundred. The total number of 
females kept for breeding in the New London 
territory was around 2,500. This included not 
only those that make ferret raising a business, 
but those who keep a few. Add to these probably 
1,500 more within a radius of fifty miles and the 



28 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

total is 4,000 young producing females. Say 
they raise five each the first litter and the total 
young is 20,000. Perhaps half or 2,000 are bred 
again. The second litters do not average so 
many. It is probable the average will be only 2^ 
or 5,000. This brings the number raised to 
25,000, and assuming that the same number will 
be kept another year for breeders, would leave 
25,000 for sale. 

At the highest tide of the industry it is esti- 
mated that 35,000 were shipped during a single 
season. The average is considerable less, being 
around 20,000 annually. The largest single 
shipment was one made the season of 1914 of 
several hundred and valued at |1,500.00. 

Ferret raising, like other enterprises, has its 
dark side, for all who engage do not succeed — 
neither do they in other lines. Yet tlie wonder- 
ful success made by a few caused others without 
any ferret knowledge to engage in the business. 
Many such, after a year or two, quit. Those 
who today are making a success, study the ani- 
mals and look after them closely. 

In the first years of the business Mr. Farns- 
wortli arranged with farmers to raise for him, 
paying 50 cents for the young in the early fall. 
At that season there was ready sale at |2.00 
each or better, so that it was easy money for the 



FERRETVILLE. 29 

buyer. It* was not long, however, until the 
farmers learned that there was a ready market 
at much more than the price Mr. Farnsworth 
was paying them, so looked elsewhere for sale. 

Ohio is noted as well for the diversity as 
well as for the extensiveness of her industries, 
and every little while one hears that a new in- 
dustrial activity has been established or an old 
one pushed to a remarkable degree. An Ohio 
man has developed the most extensive ferret- 
breeding establishment in the United States. 
He is Fred Held and his place of business is at 
New London, a little village in the southeastern 
corner of Huron County. 

The records of Held's business (he now has 
a partner) show that the number of ferrets now 
annually produced there and sold reaches the 
high point of 5,000. And they go to all parts of 
the United States and to foreign countries. The 
demand not only continues but is increasing, 
they say, and the business at the Held plant 
grows with it. 

The peculiar industry was started in that 
vicinity by three brothers living near Rochester, 
Ohio, a little village over the line in Lorain 
County — Samuel, Levi and Ezra Farnsworth — 
whose given names brand them as of New Eng- 
land extraction, Their Yankee instinct led 



FERRETVILLE. 31 

them into the business and they made quite a 
success of it, but they did not grasp the possibil- 
ities of it as Held did, who, while he got the idea 
from them, has developed it far beyond anything 
ever dreamed of by the Farns worth men. 

Originally ferrets were used almost exclu- 
sively for killing rabbits, but since many of the 
states have passed laws forbidding such use of 
them, in order to protect rabbits, their principal 
use in states like Ohio is in ridding places of rats. 
A ferret can go any place a rat can and rats are 
mortally afraid of them. They fly when a ferret 
enters their burrows. 

As is well known, ships soon become in- 
fested with rats, which board them as they are 
tied up at the wharfs. Wharfs are always in- 
fested with rats of large species that live on the 
refuse from the cargoes thrown out there. It is 
a frequent sight in the water shipping districts 
of ports to see rats going aboard by way of the 
mooring ropes. 

Every vessel carries its equipment of ferrets, 
whose duty it is to keep the holds free from the 
rodents that, during a voyage, may do extensive 
and expensive damage to goods in the cargoes. 
Vessel-owning companies are large buyers from 
the Held establishment — their orders generally 
calling for from 50 to 100 animals. 



32 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

It is not generally known that the ferret's 
choice of food is horse flesh. That mnst be an 
acquired taste, for, of course, in his wild state 
and unaided by man, the ferret could never 
secure such food. Many an ancient horse, use- 
less in other Avays, finds a sale at a low price at 
the Held ferret farms. The matter of providing 
food for the young ferrets is quite another and 
more expensive thing. A small, dairy herd is 
necessary for this purpose, for it is found that 
the little fellows do best, and escape the many 
diseases that assail young ferrets, when fed 
liberally on ground whole w^heat, liberally soaked 
in fresh cow's milk. 

At the breeding period the mother ferrets are 
also fed with the same preparation. 

Since the ferret raising industry was begun 
in Northern Ohio several hundred people in the 
New London vicinity have been interested in the 
business. At one time there were probably a 
hundred who had the "ferret fever" in a single 
year. It is true that many only raised a few and 
gave the business up after a year or two, but 
others devoted their entire time and attention 
to ferrets. While no accurate figures are avail- 
able yet several million dollars have been paid 
to the "Ferretville" raisers during the past 
twenty years. 



CHAPTER HI. 

HUTCHES AND NESTS. 

eONSIDERABLE personal observation, 
coupled with catalogs from the larger 
breeders, as well as letters from those 
keeping a few only, reveals the fact that 
hutches and boxes are all pretty much along the 
same general plan. If a person keeps but one 
or two ferrets, a very good cage, hutch or house 
can be made from an old organ box, laid flat and 
cut down so that it will only be about two feet 
liigh, which is about right for two pens. With a 
partition through the middle, this will make two 
pens about 4x3 feet. They should not be smaller 
than this for each female to get best results. 
For the front of the box heavy poultry net- 
ting with one-half or three-fourth inch mesh 
can be u^ed, as one side of the pen should be open. 
The old riddles out of a threshing separator 
make very good and durable fronts. The front 
half of the top of the box should be hinged to 
make a door. In one of the back corners of the 
pen should be placed a small box about a foot 
square to be used as sleeping quarters. There 

3 33 



34 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



slioiild be a hole about four iuciies in diameter 
in the box to alloAv the ferret to passi in and out. 
There should be plenty of clean straw kept in 
this place for the ferrets, as they seem to be best 
pleased when sleeping in the middle of a high 
bunch of straw. 




MOTHER, 



YOUNG AND NEST BOX-PLACED ON TOP OF 
HUTCH TO PHOTOGRAPH. 



According to one, cleanliness is the main 
point in the care of ferrets. They are an ex- 
tremely tender and uncertain animal to care for. 
Their pens should be about three feet high and 
three by four or five feet, which should not con- 
tain more than three or four ferrets; or if one 
has more room they can give them, it would be 



HUTCHES AND NESTS. 35 

all the better. I have kept fifty in a pen 10x12 
feet, bnt the pen has to be kept perfectly clean at 
all times. They can not climb np any further 
than they can jump up and catch hold. 

Inside this main pen should be a small box 
with a three-inch hole in the end, to serve as a 
nest where they may sleep and enable them to 
come outside in the air to sun. The main pen 
should have the bottom well covered with clean 
earth or chaff to absorb the moisture, and espe- 
cially in the corners where they leave their 
droppings; and this earth or chaff should be 
covered with clean straw. The nest should be 
supplied with soft straAV or dried grass. They 
will carry in clean nesting and keep their nest 
clean themselves if given a chance, but a general 
cleaning of pen and nest should be made at least 
once a week. Every day or two their feed dish 
should be scalded out and thoroughly washed. 

Another of the small but successful raisers 
thinks his good results due to the following: 
Cleaning pen or box every third day, also daily 
washing dishes that the ferrets eat from. 
Cleanliness is a preventive of disease and as 
ferrets' diseases, such as foot rot, are very con- 
tagious, and must be guarded against. There are 
skin diseases, lice, etc., which, while not so fatal, 
must be avoided if possible and cleanliness of 



3G FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

hutches, nests, and feeding vessels is largely a 
preventive. If any one thinks that all they have 
to do to raise ferrets is to throw in some feed, 
they are mistaken. 

A box 4x5 feet will accommodate a pair or a 
mother and litter. Place some clay or straw in 
the bottom, clean out often and there will be no 
disagreeable odor around the pen. Remember 
that ferrets should not be kept in cellars or any 
place that is damp. Their pens, hutches or boxes 
should be in as clean and dry a place as possible, 
where they get plenty of fresh air. Never cover 
up the tops of their pens. These are things I 
had to learn for myself in the last fifteen years' 
experience in caring for ferrets. 

In keeping one or two ferrets, vsays a success- 
ful raiser of years of experience, but who at one 
time only raised a few, a pen four feet square is 
about the right size and it should be about two 
feet high. Cover over the top with one-inch mesh 
wire, leaving a small door so that one can get at 
them handy. Put about three inches of good 
soil (not sand, as sand breeds fleas, and fleas are 
the worst things that a ferret or a dog has to 
contend with) in the bottom of the pen. Make 
a small box nest in one corner, cover on top, with 
holes for air, also a small square hole for the 
ferret to go in and out. The cover of this nest 



HUTCHES AND NESTS. 37 

may be taken off in the summer or warm days. 
Put enough straw in the nest for the ferret to 
burrow in and you will find that in this way 
they will do better than by throwing the straw 
in a heap in one corner. 

The ferret will use one corner of the pen and 
this should be cleaned up every day, so there will 
be no dampness, as dampness causes what we 
call foot rot, and is a bad disease for a ferret to 
have. If not taken care of, the feet become very 
tender and sore, the toe nails groAV very long, 
and, in fact, the whole foot rots. This disease 
may be cured by this simple remedy : The foot 
should be soaked in warm water until the scab 
becomes spongy, then take a little lard with 
powdered sulphur and turpentine mixed together, 
apply this freely to the feet and after a few appli- 
cations the disease will go away. If they are 
cared for properly, they will not have this disease. 
Dampness is what causes it. Change the earth 
in the bottom of the pen once or twice a year; 
also have their bedding changed often and the 
ferret will do well. 

The description here given is recommended 
by one of the largest raisers of Northern Ohio 
who has been a successful ferret man for many 
years. Where only a few ferrets are kept for 
hunting or rat killing a good hutch can be built 



38 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



out of a dry goods box. A box 3x4 feet in size 
will be ample room for a pair or even more. A 
handy hutch can be built and placed in your 
back yard by cutting the box down to thirty 
inches high. Nail cleats or posts in the corners, 
on one side let the posts stick up two feet above 
the top of the box, then nail a plate on these 
posts, put on a board roof. The boards are 
nailed to the plate and to the back of the box, 




SUMMER HUTCHES OF A NORTHERN RAISER. 

side up the gable ends, and you will have an 
opening of two feet, which gives you room to feed 
and clean out. 

Make a screen door out of one-half inch mesh 
poultry netting; this will give plenty of air. 
You can hinge this door so it will drop down if 
you wish. We would place this hutch in the 
shade in hot w^eather. This makes a good hutch 
for summer or winter, if you have some out- 
building to place it in, make a wire lid on the 
box instead of the board roof. 



HUTCHES AND NESTS. 39 

If clay is liandy, fill in four inches deep: if 
not, shavings or straw will do. Make a nest box. 
You can keep them in fine thrift in such a hutch 
and there is no danger of them getting out. 

This plan is followed by a party who raises 
several dozen each year. A ferret should not be 
kept in a dark, dirty barrel or box, but should be 
kept in a light, clean, airy shed. My pens are 
about ^ve feet long and four feet back from the 
front. I generally put a shed roof on about six 
feet high at the front and five and a half at the 
back. The building can be made as long as one 
desires. This building should be cemented and 
about one foot of dirt put on top of the cement. 
About two feet from the top of the dirt I build my 
nests by placing a ten-inch board along the back 
of the pen. I next place a board about five 
inches wide on top of my ten-inch board and 
then place a cover over this on hinges. This 
makes a nest about five inches high by ten inches 
wide by five feet long. Saw about three inches 
square out of the five-inch board in front of the 
nest for the ferrets to go in. Put four-inch board 
from these entrances down to the front of the 
pen. I leave the upper half of the pen open on 
the front for light and air. One-half inch mesh 
wire screening may be used to enclose this upper 
part. Each pen containing twenty square feet 



40 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




HUTCHES AND NESTS. 41 

( say 4x5 ) is large enough for eight f erre1^s. One 
female will do well in each enclosure with a litter. 

Raising ferrets is not difficult for those who 
know how. They must be attended to regularly, 
pens or hutches kept clean and at about a certain 
temperature. If the weather gets very warm, 
the covering on the nest or breeding box must be 
partly removed. The box in which the female 
has her young has no lid or top on, that is, no 
board, but is topped or capped with straw. 
When the weather gets unusually warm, part of 
this covering is removed. If tlie 3 oung SAveat 
much, they are too warm and if allowed in that 
condition long, will become diseased and die. In 
fact, a few sweats are fatal. 

Where a few only are kept, the pen, hutch, 
box, or whatever the females are kept in must be 
sheltered from the sun. A shed of some kind 
should be used where the air can circulate during 
very warm weather and wliere during cold spells 
the doors can be closed. Letters From Raisers, 
Chapter XIV, contains a good deal of additional 
information about hutches and pens. 



CHAPTER lY. 

BARNS AND SHEDS. 

CHOSE who raise ferrets on a large scale 
find it advisable to have weather proof 
buildings in which the ferrets are kept, 
hutches built, boxes and nests made, etc. 
Buildings used by such raisers and breeders vary 
from small sheds to large and handsome barns. 
While the large and more up-to-date building 
presents a much more prosperous appearance, 
yet, no doubt, the shed usually affords as com- 
fortable quarters for the animals, which seems 
to be all that is necessary. In fact, considerable 
inquiry seemed to substantiate this view. In 
other words, raisers with the largest and best 
buildings were not always the most prosperous 
and successful. In one instance, at least, a fine 
barn built especially for the ferret industry is 
now seldom used for that purpose. 

Without giving the matter much thought 
one would, at first, naturally suppose that the 
larger buildings would be best suited to success- 
ful ferret raising. Why? Because the large 
and high buildings would be cooler in the sum- 
mer as the animals would be considerable dis- 

42 



BARNS AND SHEDS. 43 

tance from the roof. Again, the better built 
buildings would be warmer during cold weather, 
and feeding would be much easier under one roof. 
But there is another side to be considered. Sup- 
pose disease was to break out among the ferrets. 
Would it not be better to have several small 
barns or sheds in preference to one large 
building? 

Raisers of experience have found it advisable 
to establish their ferret farms two, three or even 
more miles from cities, towns or villages, largely 
as a precaution against distemper. Ferrets will 
contract the disease from dogs, which is usually 
severe. Dogs are not allowed around the build- 
ings or even upon the farm of most ranches. We 
are now speaking of those endeavoring to raise 
thousands or at least hundreds yearly. Those 
who raise only a few can afford to take chances 
in keeping them in or near a town or city. 

There are various plans or ways of building 
barns or ferret shelters. A building suitable for 
say 50 females and young can be built for prob- 
ably |100. Yet another breeder might spend 
three times as much upon a building no larger — 
just as one man builds a house better than 
another. 

During the spring of 1915, when the writer 
visited the Held & Anderson ferret farm, where 



u 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




BARNS AND SHEDS. 45 

500 females and 100 males were kept, tliey were 
ill one shed which was 12 feet wide and 100 long, 
4^ feet at eaves and about 7 at comb of roof — • 
just high enough for a man to walk through the 
center aisle or alley. This aisle was about 3J 
feet wide, on either side of which were 50 pens 
2 X 4J feet. This was one of six similar barns 
or sheds but all ferrets were then in one building 
so as to be more easily fed and cared for. Ends 
of these sheds were to the east and west with 
sides to the south and north. This plan of 
building gave sunshine to one side and row of 
pens, half of the day, providing of course that 
the sun shone. A hinged board along the out- 
side could be raised to allow more air or ventila- 
tion during very warm weather. This board, or 
door, was kept closed during cold or stormy 
weather. 

Perhaps the most complete and up-to-date 
ferret buildings and equipment in America is in 
Ashland County, Ohio, the property of Chamber- 
lain Bros., Ashland, Ohio, which was under the 
management of C. M. Sackett when this splen- 
didly equipped and handled establishment was 
visited in the spring of 1915. A pretty good idea 
can be had of their equipment and manner of 
conducting same from the bird's eye view which 
includes barn, silo, cook house and three ferret 



BARNS AND SHEDS. 47 

barns. Each of the three barns are 200 feet long, 
12 feet wide Avith a 4 foot aisle and contain 200 
pens 4 feet long by 2 feet wide and 30 inches 
high. The front or aisle end of each pen has an 
18 incli< strip of f inch netting. In the center of 
each barn is a straw shed 12 x 18 and 8 feet 
higher than balance of barn where straw for the 
ferret pens is stored making it convenient to get 
when needed. 

The barn and silo are important parts of the 
ferret colony for in the barn cows are kept and 
in the silo cow feed thns snpplying milk for the 
ferrets. Tha cook honse ( the bnilding Avith the 
chimncA^) is IG x 30 feet, tAA o stories. First floor 
is nsed for cooking, grinding meat, and grinding 
Avheat into graham flonr, etc. ; the upper floor is 
a AA'ork room Avhere shipping crates are made as 
Avell as much other aa ork done. 

At the right hand side, and near the front 
of the cook house, is a shed under Avhich a pit 
about 5 feet deep, 4 long and 2 Avide has been 
dug and cemented. When an old Avorn out horse 
is killed, or one in good flesh is accidentally 
killed or dies, it is bought. The hide is taken off 
and carcass cut up, when a layer of meat, then a 
layer of ice is placed in the pit. This is repeated, 
layer after layer, until entire carcass is> packed 
in. The pit has a double cover and meat so 




48 



BARNS AND SHEDS. 49 

packed, even in hot weather, will keep for more 
than a week. Several fresh horse skeletons lying 
about bore evidence that these raisers fed con- 
siderable horse meat, especially during the 
winter months. 

A good many people are inclined to brag and 
overrate their own business whether ferret rais- 
ing or some other. The Chamberlain Bros. Fer- 
ret Colony, C. M. Sackett, manager, has been 
running for twelve years, that is the manager 
had had that many 3'ears experience Avlien the 
writer visited them. Chamberlain Brothers, 
some years ago, evidently saw that the business 
had great possibilities. One of the brothers is a 
successful merchant of Mansfield, Ohio, and the 
other conducts a store on the farm where tlie 
ferrets are raised. The following description of 
their buildings and plant is taken from their 
catalog : 

^'Our buildings are of the most up-to-date 
plans, completely equipped. Fine pens with wire 
fronts and backs, drop doors, automatic litter 
carriers with steel rod tracks, for the purpose of 
keeping the barns clean and sanitary. In our 
cook house we have an engine, feed grinder, meat 
grinder, saws (as we manufacture all our own 
shipping crates), meat pit and Chaldron cookers, 
also have tracks with feed car running from the 



50 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




P.ARXS ANT) SHEDS. 51 

COW stables directly tli rough the cook house into 
the ferret barns. This car is used to move the 
milk from the stables and the meat and mush 
from the cook house to the feeding pens, which 
enables us to do a great amount of feeding 
quickly and in a sanitary condition. We have 
GOO pens, which give us room for 4,500 ferrets.'^ 
The ferret business according to Ralph J. 
Wood, of Huron County, Ohio, is not learned in 
a day. Although he is an old hunter and trapper 
having trapped as far back as the TO's and 
familiar with the habits and nature of animals, 
he still learns something new about the ferret 
raising business each year. In 1900 when he first 
began raising he kept them in outdoor pens but 
now he has three buildings each fifty feet long in 
which are one hundred and fifty single pens. 
The open or outdoor pens are all right for sum- 
mer and fall but not to be recommended for 
winter. 



CHAPTER V. 

FEEDING AND MANAGEMENT. 

CIKE most industries, vocations or busi- 
nesses the man, boy, woman or girl that 
makes a success knows what they are 
doing, — are acquainted with what they 
are doing. The same applies to successful fer- 
ret raising. They must know the habits of the 
animals and be quick to detect their peculiari- 
ties. Ferrets must be looked after and fed dail}^ 
This, however, is no more than poultry, pet or 
other live stock requires. 

That experience counts for much in this busi- 
ness the following bears out : One raiser of 
years of experience, who has raised several thou- 
sand in a single season, said that he walked 
through his sheds every evening during the sum- 
mer months and from the squeal or cry of a 
young ferret could tell whether it was right or 
wrong — in nest or out. Sometimes they get out 
of the nest and into the straw. If quite young, 
chances are that they will not be able to get into 
the nest again. In such instances they are dead 
b}^ morning. 

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53 



54 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

The staple food for ferrets sliould be bread 
or mash, made of whole wheat and milk. If you 
feed meat in hot Aveather, feed only a little at a 
time. Do not feed salty meat, as salt is fatal to 
ferrets. Feed them bread and milk and fresh 
meat and be careful not to let them have any- 
thing that has cornmeal in it, as it will in time 
kill them. Ferrets should be weaned at about 
eight weeks old as the old ones then will fight 
them. A good food for them is fresh meat, milk, 
oatmeal and milk, gravy and occasionally^ fried 
eggs. Except when the females have young, 
feeding once a day is sufficient. They should be 
fed only what they will eat up clean before the 
next feeding time, which should be in the morn- 
ing. During hot weather if the same amount of 
feed sours, it will, be best to reduce the amount 
and feed twice d^ily, They should have fresh 
meat once or twic^ a week and should be fed only 
what they eat up clean. Any kind of game 
animal, such as rabbit, bird and muskrat are 
good for them, but it is dangerous to feed the 
common rat to them. Beef or horse meat, and 
bread and fresh milk are good, but salt will kill 
them. Fresh pork is good, but do not give them 
more than they will eat up clean at a time. 

In caring for ferrets you should have a clean, 
dry place and it should also be roomv. For bed- 



FEEDING AND MANAGEMENT. 55 

ding you should use fine liay or rye straw ; never 
use oats straw ; also liave tlieir feeding part light, 
When out hunting, the head of game caught is 
all right to be fed to a ferret. 

Different foods are fed by the various raisers 
but it appears to us that the graham mash, fed 
with milk is the best all-round feed. Bread and 
milk is also to be recommended. Meat may be 
fed, although they get along well without it and 
if fed too liberally may cause ill effects. Salty 
meat must never be fed, neither should it be 
tainted or decayed. The chapter on Breeding 
explains how to feed the female and young. 

Those who have followed the ferret raising 
business for years, either on a large or a small 
scale, recommend the "graham mash" as the 
principal food. It is made from whole wheat 
ground or mashed. The mash is made much the 
same as regular cornmeal mush, that is, cooked 
with water to which has been added a little 
salt — about the same as for table use. At feed- 
ing time this masli is mixed with milk. About a 
quart a day is sufficient for four, five or six fer- 
rets or what is usually kept in one pen or hutch 
during the winter season. Some use skim milk 
but right there is where many make a mistake. 
For strong, healthy ferrets, milk as taken from 
cows should be fed, that is, not skimmed. 




56 



FEEDIXa AND MANAGEMENT. 57 

One of the large and successful raisers feeds 
as follows : During winter the stock kept for 
breeding is fed milk in the morning, no mush and 
meat in the afternoon. In other words milk only 
in the morning and meat onh^ in the afternoon 
or evening. After the mating and until young 
are born no meat is fed but the graham mush. 
After young are born then the graham mush with 
milk and ground meat. The young Avill learn to 
eat the mush and milk also the ground meat as 
soon as they leave the nest. Many ferrets are 
killed by too much meat and young especially 
must be fed but little at first. A piece as large 
as a hen's eg^ ground up is ]3lenty to begin on 
for a litter of five or six. 

Where large numbers are kept, the graham 
mash fed with milk is not only the cheapest but 
most convenient feed. Some feed meat occasion- 
ally but during hot weather it may cause bloat. 
Ferrets are very fond of horse flesh and the 
larger ferret establishments buy old worn out 
horses for about |5.00 each. The hide is worth 
considerable so that the meat costs little or noth- 
ino- other than the work connected with the 
slaughtering and feeding. A piece as big as a 
hen's egg is enough for each ferret. Remember 
that it is best to feed meat but once or twice a 
week. Some successful raisers feed little or no 



58 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



meat, finding the graham mash a splendid all 

year round feed. 

Pans used for feeding should hold only about 

a quart. They can be six, seven or eight inches 

in diameter but should 
be only about one and 
one-half inches high. 
The experienced raiser 
knows how much they 
will eat up clean, but 
does not overfeed, yet 
they "lick the platter 
clean" before next feed- 
ing time which does 
away with all washing 
of pans. If this was not 

done, that is all the food eaten, pans would 

require washing before each feeding. 

Ferrets learn when they are to be fed and 
will come when called. This, of course, they 
only learn after becoming familiar with the call 
of the owner or one in charge. In the ranches 
where ferrets are kept over winter they come 
readily at their call. This may be bun! bun! 
bun! or ferry! ferry! ferry! or whatever suits. 
They soon learn just as cats come to the call of 
kitty ! kitty ! kitty ! 




FEEDING PANS. 



FEEDING AND MANAGEMENT. 59 

Never handle a ferret roughly ; pick them up 
geiith^ and in so doing you will have very tame 
ferrets, as they like to be handled in a gentle 
way. When a ferret comes out of a hole, do not 
make a grab as soon as her nose appears, but 
wait until she gets all out and then pick her up. 
If not, you will have one that will become shy 
and not come out as it should. 

Their average life is from three to five years. 
A ferret's natural diet in its wild state is meat, 
but bread soaked in milk is a good food. For 
one ferret give about a cup of milk with a small 
slice of bread broken in it once a day, also a 
small piece of meat two or three times a week. 
Keep all salty food away from them, as salt is 
hurtful. 

People in general seem to think the ferret is 
a wild, unknowing animal; but experience has 
been to the contrary. I have known ferrets to be 
raised under an old barn and when milking and 
feeding time came, could be called like cats. 

It is very important that hutches, boxes and 
other places, or enclosures be carefully watched 
and kept clean. They must be so built, arranged 
or located that they are warm during cold and 
wintry weather. Ferrets are very susceptible to 
cold. A window or other opening allowing draft 
will prove fatal. The hutches or building where 



60 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

kept must be on dry ground. It is also best to 
have the floor a foot or so above the ground. 

Northern Ohio, so far, has been the locality 
where the greatest numbers are raised. This is 
not because that particular locality offers the 
best climate or other advantages for successful 
raising, but rather from the fact that there is 
where the industry started and many others soon 
followed. No doubt there are other portions of 
Ohio and other states as well that are better 
adapted to the business by having a more favor- 
able climate — not so much changeable weather. 
Again there are localities where there is much 
rain, air continually damp or changeable so that 
the business would not be apt to be successful 
or profitable. 



CHAPTER VI. 

BREEDING. 

PROPER care and handling from the time 
the female comes into heat until the 
young are old enough to wean, is a critical 
period in ferret raising and here generally 
hinges success or failure. Methods followed at 
the various ferret farms are somewhat different, 
partly owing to numbers kept, yet the general 
procedure is much the same, whether a few jills 
(females) only or hundreds are kept. 

When the farm or ferret colony is an exten- 
sive one, the female (also known as doe or jill) 
is put in with the buck and left for 24 hours. 
The coming into heat signs are much the same 
as a bitch. One breeder says that during this 
period the female resembles a sow pig. The 
period of swelling lasts a week or longer. When 
the proper time arrives to take the male, the 
exposed swollen part of the female will be about 
as large as a grain of corn. 

To further explain we will take a farm where 
say 100 females and 20 males are kept. Straw 

Gl 



62 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

and other litter should be removed from the floor 
of a buck's pen or hutch, before a female is put 
in. Suppose ten are in heat and are put with ten 
males in ten separate pens. They are left to- 
gether for 24 hours when the females should be 
removed and placed in two pens, five females in 
each. Next day select ten more females but put 
in with different males. Keep this up until all 
have been bred. The object in using bucks every 
other day is to allow a day's rest. Experienced 
breeders say this means healthier and stronger 
stock as well as larger litters. Record should be 
kept of the date bred and in a week all females 
should be again examined. If they are not with 
young, swelling remains and the female is put 
with the male again. There is no difficulty in 
determining whether it is necessary to put with 
the buck the second time. 

The object in putting five females together in 
one pen or hutch after being served b}^ the buck 
is for convenience in feeding and caring for 
them. They can be left together for thirty days. 
At the end of that time they should be separated, 
each placed in a pen or hutch about 3x4 feet, 
provided with a nest box about 12 x 14 inches 
and 10 inches high, filled with wheat straw. The 



BREEDING. 



0)3 




nest box has a hole in one end 
near the bottom, large enongli 
to run 3^our hand and arm in. 
This box is filled with straw 
which should be pressed down 
firmly and a sort of a nest 
made. The female will now 

BREEDING BOX, , , . t i i • 

OR NEST FOR take possession. As she begins 
MOTHER AND to shed about ten days before 

YOUNG. XI 1 1 1 • 

the young are born, she begins 
to line the nest with her hair and fur. The nest 
is nicely lined and completed in time for the 
young — a provision of nature. All straw other 
than in the breeding box was removed when the 
female Avas put in the pen or hutch 12 days be- 
fore the young were born. The female carries 
her young 42 days. Breeding females should be 
fed twice each day while with young and the 
same after they are born. 

The date that mating should begin is quite 
important. Those who are experienced are of 
the opinion that it is best not to mate until the 
period of heat or swelling has developed several 
days for large litters. Some females, mainly 
large, healthy old ones may come in heat late in 
February, but where large numbers are raised, 
the first are bred about the middle of March. 
One large and successful breeder makes it a rule 



64 FERRET FACTS AND FAXCIE8. 

to breed the first on March ITth, St. Patrick's 
Day. 

As the females are pregnant 42 days, the man 
who makes a business of raising ferrets watches 
closely when they are born and evens up the 
young. The number produced in a litter varies 
from 1 to 15, seven, eight or nine being common, 
with now and then one producing ten, eleven, or 
more. Others vary from two to six. A female, 
having only one, two, three or four, if strong 
and healthy, is given one, two or more from 
another litter. This should be done within 24 
hours after she litters for best results. The 
female usually has only six or at most seven 
teats. Any not sucked will soon dry. Therefore 
it is best to place all young intended with her 
soon. The object in distributing the young is 
that each little fellow may have a teat of his 
own. 

When a second litter is desired, wean as soon 
as the young are old enough to eat. The female 
will come in heat again anywhere from ten days 
to two weeks. The young are grown at three 
months and can generally be weaned at about 
two months or as soon as they eat. Before wean- 
ing " straw up,'' when the mother will make a 
nice nest for her young. The only straw that 
had been given was in the nest box but before 



BREEDING. 65 

removing the mother and nest box, straw should 
be placed to a depth of two or three inches in the 
pen. Here, the mother, as already stated, will 
make a nice nest. Wheat straw is the only kind 
that should be used. 

Nature does wonders. A big litter will usu- 
ally open their eyes in four weeks while a small 
one may not until they are six weeks old. Why? 
Because the mother is not able to supply the 
large litter with nourishment and in the wild 
condition they must hustle for themselves, which 
is impossible until they can see. The box is 
taken away after the young are big enough to 
run around. Young ferrets are carried by the 
old one in the same manner that a cat carries 
kittens, by the nape of the neck, if she wishes to 
remove them. 

First litters, where rightly handled, gen- 
erally run 7, 8 and 9, whereas the second are apt 
to be only 3, 4 and 5. Sometimes a third litter 
has been produced within a year. 

While ferrets live to be six or eight years of 
age and maybe longer, yet they are a short lived 
animal. The best success in breeding is with 
yearlings. If two-year-olds are bred the per cent 
of deaths will be greater than with the yearlings. 
A successful breeder said that if he kept two 
hundred females for breeders, one hundred one 



66 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

year old and the other hundred two years old, 
that the number of deaths would likely be twice 
as many among the two-year-olds. Further he 
said that the yearlings would raise as many if 
not more young than the two-year-olds. 

In some parts of the Old World, where fer- 
rets have been bred and raised for hundreds of 
years, a report has been spread that a female in 
heat not allowed to be with a male will die ; also 
males not allowed with females will die. In- 
quiry among breeders in America does not bear 
out such reports. The fact that ferrets are short 
lived, whether bred or not, probably was the 
foundation for the assertion which seems to have 
originated in Europe. 

Judging from the fact that the first litter is 
about double that of the second for best breeders, 
females from the first litter should be kept. The 
fact that some ferret raisers produce an average 
number of young per female much larger than 
others, leads to this belief, although no one so 
stated. In fact there are certain things in con- 
nection with the business that raisers seem to 
wish kept from the public. 

For large litters I am of the belief that both 
females and males selected from the first litters 
should be kept. True, this will mean keeping a 
few months longer than if taken from the second, 



BREEDING. 67 

but the larger average in number produced will 
surely more than make up the additional keep- 
ing expense. 

Ferret raising, to be successful, on either a 
large or small scale, requires head Avork as well 
as much manual labor, yet the business is one 
that offers more than ordinary wages. The 
information so far applies more especially to 
those raising large numbers. By far the major- 
ity will begin in a small w^ay, keeping say from 
one to a dozen females, so that the balance of 
this chapter will mainly be of interest to begin- 
ners or those who keep a few only. Much of this 
information was gathered from observation as 
well as correspondence so that there is consid- 
erable repetition of methods already explained. 

The male and female must be kept separate 
in the breeding season and only one ferret in the 
pen with the young, or they will destroy them. 
They will breed three times a year if handled 
right, but it is not advisable to breed more than 
twice, as the third litter would be too small for 
market during the hunting season and would 
have to be kept about a year before they could 
be marketed, which would not pay. 

When a ferret has young ones, they must be 
watched so the mother will not cover them too 
deep in the straw, as this causes sweat, which is 




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BREEDING. 69 

dangerous to the 3^oung ones. After they get 
their eves open, which will be in about six wee^s, 
they can be weaned. Open up the pen on warm 
days so they can run about and get in the sun. 

The main diet of the ferret is bread and milk, 
with raw meat occasionally in the form of a 
rabbit head or a bird, or in fact, any animal. 
They are especially fond of rabbits and young 
chickens, sparrows, woodchucks, etc. They 
should be fed raw meat quite frequentl}^ while 
they are nursing the young, as they some- 
times become blood-thirsty and eat the young if 
they can get no meat. 

One raiser who breeds a few each season 
writes as follows : A ferret carries its 3'Oung for 
six weeks and has from one to twelve in a litter ; 
the average seems to be from three to seven. 
The young do not open their eyes for about six 
weeks, but should be fed milk as soon as they 
will drink it, which is at about the age of two 
weeks if a large litter, four if a small one, as the 
mother's milk seems to practically cease. I 
heard of several cases where beginners let the 
young starve to death because they didn't feed 
before the eyes were open. If a second litter is 
desired take the female away from the young as 
soon as they will eat good (about six weeks) and 
in a week or ten days she will be ready to breed 



70 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

again. It is advisable to keep a pail of sand 
scattered in the bottom of the pen, especially 
during hot weather. Dirt is not advisable as it 
soon becomes dust and does not seem to agree 
with the ferrets. In winter straw is preferred. 
The pens should be cleaned frequently. The fer- 
ret is a very clean animal if you will do your 
part in cleaning the pen and supplying fresh 
bedding for it. It is also a very healthy animal 
if the pen is kept reasonably clean. 

Another party who has raised a few litters 
each season calls attention to the following: 
Give the female plenty of fresh meat and she 
will never eat her young unless you have the 
male so near that they can smell or hear one 
another. Do not look at the young ones for a 
week or more because she may become angry and 
kill them or bite the disturber. The young ones 
are blind for six weeks and are generally born 
about May. If weaned early, the mother will 
generally have another litter. There are gener- 
ally from five to twelve in a litter and sometimes 
as many as eighteen. The smaller litters are the 
strongest, therefore, there is generally as much 
profit from the small as from the large litters. 

When the young ones start to crawl from 
their nest, a little bread and milk can be fed 
every day. Be sure and remove all the bread 



BREEDING. 71 

that they do not eat, because it will get sour and 
this will make them sick. 

Give the pen a great amount of fresh air and 
sunlight, but never let them get sick. If their 
eyes or neck swell up, wait until it gets soft and 
then lance it. Keep the ones thus treated from 
the rest, as they will eat the unfortunate one. 

A ferret in good, healthy condition will gen- 
erally come in condition to breed about Feb- 
ruary. The buck should be left with the female 
about one week, unless you have several females, 
then leave only a day or two with each, then they 
should be separated and the female left entirely 
to herself. They carry their young six weeks 
and during this period they should be fed all the 
fresh raw meat they want ; most any kind of raw 
meat will do, but under no circumstances should 
meat containing salt be given them, as it will 
kill them. 

I have bred them twice during the same year 
but nine out of ten will only breed once. The 
only way I was able to do it, was to take the first 
litter of young away from the old ferret as soon 
as they were large enough to crawl out of the 
nest themselves and go to the dish to eat. About 
May the old ferret would be ready to breed 
again. They usually have from four to eight in 
a litter. It must be understood that this applies 



72 rp:KRKT facis and faxcies. 

only U) a strong, healthy ferret having the best 
of care. 

In breeding, according to one small but suc- 
cessful raiser, you should have strong, healthy 
ferrets; also good working ferrets and avoid in- 
T)reeding as much as possible. As a rule, ferrets 
bre(?d twice a year but often only once, and they 
g(merally have from five to seven in a litter, but 
sometimes njore. The breeding season is from 
the last of ^larch to the first of October. As 
soon as this time arrives you should separate 
your ferrets. Place each one in a box or hutch 
which should be large and roomy and then watch 
for the period of oestrum, and when that comes 
upon her, put her in a hutch with the male and 
let her remain two days and then take her out 
and put her in her own hutch by herself, which 
of course should be large and roomy, so she can 
have plenty of exercise. Give her plenty of 
clean, rich food, such as new milk, bread, oat- 
meal, and fresh meat of any kind except pork. 

The habits of the ferret during breeding sea- 
son are about tlie same as the dog. The female 
carries her young about 42 days. About one 
week before her litter arrives, her hutch should 
have a good cleaning and then it should be dried 
and a bed of fine hay or straw put in for a nest 
and this should be all the nest she should have 



BSEEZ»IXG. 1 3 

imtQ the joong are four weAs old; but if the 
Beet beocmies duty, pemore the dirt without 
distinlHiig; the jovnig <Hies. This should be done 
when the mother is out feeding 

Great eare should be taken in bedding, as a 
great many jonng ferrets sae lost in esa^ee^ 
bedding. You should hare Plough bedding so 
that she ean hide her young but not eoofo^ to 
get lost in. Do not let them sweat or they will 
die. The male diould not be with the female in 
Ineeding season as he will be sure to kill the 
young. 

The young ones are bom with their eyes 
^osed and will remain that way till they are nx 
wedks old. If the young a^iear hungry before 
they eome out of their nest, soak bread in new 
milk and let them suck it and after they hare 
sucked the ndlk out, take the bread out of the 
nest. When the young are ten or eleren wedLs 
old. wean th€m by putting the mother in another 
huteh by hoself. If any of them get weak and 
aek, tiy to build tlsem up by putting them in 
another hutek br themselres and then gire them 
^enfy of new milk and bread. 

Breeders have their own indiridual idea as to 
fke best sue for the different animals ferrets are 
tobeusedon. There are three axes — large, me- 
dium. analL The gennal afisdaa seems to be 



74 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

that medium size are best for rats and rabbits. 
On the other hand many small ones are used for 
these animals. Those favoring the small say that 
if they catch a rabbit underground chances are 
that rabbit will come out with ferret clinging to 
it; also that they can more easily follow small 
rats in the dens. All seem to be agreed upon the 
larger, old and more savage fighters for mink, 
skunk, coon, gophers, prairie dogs, etc. 

A good type of the ferret is: Sharp or 
pointed nose; long, slim, muscular body; short 
legs ; good sweep in the turn of the animal's neck 
and body. Blunt-headed, thickly-set ferrets, are 
not of the proper type and generally of little or 
no value. Ferrets must be strong, active, 
healthy and hardy. These are the kind from 
which to breed. Again do not breed weak or 
sickly animals, nor bad workers, but bear in 
mind that these or other traits, or pronounced 
characteristics, whether good or bad, in the male 
or female, will show in the young often to an 
increased extent. Know your stock and by care- 
ful breeding you can produce a strain showing 
improvement with each generation. 

Owing to cold and late springs, of recent 
years, breeding has been later than usual in 
most of the ferret colonies. Ferrets cannot 
stand severe cold and do not come in heat, even 



BREEDING. 75 

when provided with good warm shelters and 
nests, as soon when cold weather hangs on in 
the spring. Most ferrets have been mated the 
past few years, in latitudes similar to Northern 
Ohio, during the month of April and a fair per 
cent not until toward the end of the month. I 
am inclined to think that in Kentucky and sim- 
ilar climates, such as Southern Ohio, Indiana, 
Illinois, Missouri, etc., that they would come 
into heat at least two weeks sooner. If such 
proves to be true southern raisers would have 
considerable advantage. 



CHAPTER YII. 

HANDLING AND TRAINING. 

flLTHOUGH ferrets naturally are of a 
rather tame and gentle disposition yet 
if never handled are somewhat wild and 
shy. Many young ferrets, probably the 
majority, sent out by those engaged in the busi- 
ness have had little or no handling, although 
they are fairly tame, having become so mostly 
through feeding. All hunters know that unless 
dogs are handled and trained they are not of 
much use. Same applies to ferrets, however, only 
to a certain extent for their nature is to hunt 
and they require little training, yet the inex- 
perienced will want to know how to proceed. 
The following therefore is offered : 

The beginning, that is, handling and even 
training to a certain extent not only for rabbits, 
but rats and other pests, is so much the same 
that no distinction for various animals will be 
made here. The chapters treating on rabbits, 
rats, other pests and fur animals will give addi- 
tional instructions how to proceed. 

Most ferrets should be weaned at about three 
months of age, which is the time to begin hand- 

76 



HANDLING AND TRAINING. 77 

ling. Some may be cross at first, biting at every 
chance they get. If impossible to handle with 
the naked hands, use a pair of thick gloves that 
they cannot bit through. A ferret bite, so far as 
known, is not poisonous. It is best however to 
take no risk. 

The first thing to teach the ferret is that you 
do not intend to hurt it in any way. Handle for 
several minutes daily and in a week or two they 
become tame and apparently like to be picked 
up and handled. They soon learn their owner, 
feeder and handler, coming to their keeper on 
sight of him, or when called, providing you have 
used some call when feeding. Like cats they 
soon learn their call, but instead of kitty ! kitty ! 
kitty ! it can be ferry ! ferry ! ferry ! or some such 
call. 

A cross ferret can be picked up in the bare 
hands, by the tail, then let the front feet touch 
something. Now slip your hand around its neck, 
close to the head, so it cannot bite you. A few 
such lessons and they learn who is master. Be 
gentle in handling yet hold them firmly until 
they cease struggling. Never tease or torment 
ferrets in any way as it tends to make them 
cross and snap at anything that moves near 
them; also makes them shy and more trouble 
to catch. 



78 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



There is a knack in picking up a ferret. In 
other words there is a right and a wrong way. 
The wrong way is putting the hand crosswise 
of the ferret and grabbing down on its neck. If 
you miss the hold desired (or maybe the entire 
animal) the ferret will either bite you or dodge 

away. The right way 
is to pass your hand 
quietly lengthwise 
over the ferret, your 
fingers pointing to- 
ward the hind quar- 
ters, thumb being on 
one side of ferret, the 
first and second fin- 
ger along the back, 
third and fourth fin- 
gers on the other side 
of the animal. A fer- 
ret handled in this manner seldom bites. If they 
shy back can be kept up to you with the first 
and second fingers, which are back of the 
shoulders. 

When a ferret or ferrets have been handled, 
so that they are no longer shy, can be easily 
caught, picked up and handled, they are about as 
good as trained. Remember though the tamer 
and more they are handled the better. Ferrets 




CORRECT WAY TO HOLD A 
FERRET. 



HANDLING AND TRAINING. 79 

need little or no training for by instinct their 
nature is to hunt, drive and kill. On the other 
hand it is from instinct that the rabbit endeavors 
to get away whether the animal entering the den 
is ferret, mink, skunk or any other of the flesh 
eating kind. Same applies to rats as ferrets 
and they are natural enemies. Thus it can be 
readily understood, even though a ferret has 
never been after a rabbit or in a den, the nature 
and instinct of the two animals are such that 
training is really not necessary. Simply place 
the ferret in the entrance to den. After nosing 
around a little, nine times out of ten, it will enter 
and explore the entire den before coming out. 
Perhaps it would not be advisable to do this at 
many dens in which there was no rabbits. Some 
recommend that a rabbit be put or chased into 
the first den tried. This is not a bad suggestion. 
If a little actual experience on rabbits is de- 
sired, ferrets only four months old, if broken to 
being handled, easily caught, etc., may be given 
a trial. Where rabbits are plenty wait until one 
is run into a den. Now put the ferret at the 
mouth of den. It perhaps will nose about a lit- 
tle, at first, then go slowly in. The rabbit will, 
no doubt, soon bolt by the ferret and come out. 
The rabbit should be caught and held until the 
ferret comes out when the rabbit may be killed. 



80 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




ILLINOIS RAISER HANDLING FERRETS. 1. FERRET HOLD- 
ING TO A DEAD DUCK. 2. HOLDING A FERRET. 3. COR- 
RECT WAY TO HOLD. 4 AND 5. FERRETS IN HUTCH. 



HANDLING AND TRAINING. 81 

put into the mouth of den, with the ferret. As 
the rabbit is still kicking the ferret will not 
realize but that it is alive. It will probably 
begin eating at the bloodiest part. Let it nose 
and eat for a few minutes. 

Methods of handling and training for rats 
and other pests as well as for mink, skunk and 
other animals are given in the chapters on fer- 
rets and these animals. It might be well to 
repeat here that methods of handling and train- 
ing are all the same at the start. Young ferrets 
four months up are good for rabbits; for rats 
they should be at least six months old; for 
ground squirrels (large western), gophers, 
prairie dogs, mink, skunk, etc., only large, old 
and strong should be used. For this class of 
work not younger than yearling although two 
year old would be better. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

RATS. 

CHESE rodents are the greatest mammal 
pests in America. In fact rats do many 
millions of dollars worth of damage in 
North America annually. They were in- 
troduced into this country in 1775 or about a 
hundred years before the ferret. Rats not only 
do an immense financial damage, but as well are 
the means, or method, of spreading some fatal 
human diseases. As ferrets and rats are natural 
enemies, the subject is of sufficient importance to 
go somewhat into detail. 

The United States Department of Agricul- 
ture some years ago issued Farmers' Bulletin 369 
entitled "How to Destroy Rats," from which the 
following extracts are taken : 

Introduction. — The brown or Norway rat (Mus nor- 
vegicus) is the worst mammal pest in the United States, the 
losses from its depredations amounting to many millions of 
dollars yearly — to more, probably, than the losses from all 
other injurious mammals combined. 

Several species of rats are known as house rats, including 
the black rat (Mus rattus), the roof rat (Mus alexandrinus), 
and the brown rat (Mus norvegicus). Of these the last is 
the commonest and most widespread in this country. Not 

82 



RATS. 83 

one of these species is a native, but all were imported from 
the Old World. As their habits in general are similar, the 
instructions given in the bulletin apply alike to all. 

In addition to its destructive habits, the rat is known to 
be an active agent in disseminating infectious diseases, a fact 
which renders measures for its destruction doubly important. 

Introduced into America about 1775, the brown rat has 
supplanted and nearly exterminated its less robust relative, 
the black rat, and despite the incessant warfare of man has 
extended its range and steadily increased in numbers. Its 
dominance is due to its great fecundity and its ability to 
adapt itself to all sorts of conditions. It breeds three, four 
or even more, times a year, and produces from 6 to 17 young 
in a litter. Females breed when only 4 or 5 months old. The 
species is practically omnivorous, feeding upon all kinds of 
animal and vegetable matter. It makes its home in the open 
field, the hedge row, and the river bank, as well as in stone 
walls, piers, and all kinds of buildings. It destroys grains 
when newly planted, while growing, and in the shock, stack, 
mow, crib, granary, mill, elevator, or ship's hold, and also in 
the bin and feed trough. It invades store and warehouse, and 
destroys furs, laces, silks, carpets, leather goods and grocer- 
ies. It attacks fruits, vegetables and meats in the markets 
and destroys by pollution ten times as much as it actually 
eats. It carries disease germs from house to house and 
bubonic plague from city to city. It causes disastrous con- 
flagrations ; floods houses by gnawing lead water pipes ; ruins 
artificial ponds and embankments by burrowing; destroys 
eggs and young poultry; eats the eggs and young of song 
birds and game birds ; and damages foundations, floors, doors, 
and furnishings of dwellings. 

Means of Repressing Rats. — Rats have developed so 
much intelligence and such extraordinary caution that attempts 
to exterminate them have rarely succeeded. The failures 



84 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

have been due not so much to lack of effective methods as 
to the neglect of certain precautions and the absence of con- 
certed action. We have rendered our work abortive by con- 
tinuing to provide subsistence and hiding places for the rats. 
When these advantages are denied, persistent and concerted 
use of the methods here recommended will prove far more 
effective. 

Rat- Proof Building. — First in importance, as a measure 
of rat repression, is the exclusion of the animals from places 
where they find food and safe retreats for rearing their 
young. 

The best way to keep rats from buildings, whether in 
city or in country, is by the use of cement in construction. 
As the advantages of this material are coming to be generally 
understood, its use is rapidly extending to all kinds of build- 
ings. Dwellings, dairies, barns, stables, chicken houses, ice 
houses, bridges, dams, silos, tanks, cisterns, root cellars, hot- 
beds, sidewalks, and curbs are now often made wholly of 
cement. The process of mixing and laying this material re- 
quires little skill or special knowledge, and workmen of ordi- 
nary intelligence can successfully follow the plain directions 
contained in handbooks of cement construction. Illustrated 
handbooks are often furnished free by cement manufacturers. 

Many modern public buildings are so constructed that 
rats can find no lodgment in the walls or foundations, and 
yet in a few years, through negligence, such buildings often 
become infested with the pests. Sometimes drain pipes are 
left uncovered for hours at a time. Often outer doors, espe- 
cially those opening on alleys, are left ajar. A common mis- 
take is failure to screen basement windows which must be 
opened for ventilation. However the intruders are admitted, 
when once inside they intrench themselves behind furniture 
or stores, and are difficult to dislodge. The addition of inner 
doors to vestibules is an important precaution against rats. 



RATS. 85 

The lower part of outer doors to public buildings, especially 
markets should be reinforced with light metal plates to pre- 
vent the animals from gnawing through. 

Dwellings. — In constructing dwelling houses the addi- 
tional cost of making the foundation rat-proof is slight as 
compared with the advantages. The cellar walls should have 
concrete footings, and the walls themselves should be laid 
in cement mortar. The cellar floor should be of medium 
rather than lean concrete, and all water and drain pipes 
should be surrounded with concrete. Even old cellars may 
be made rat-proof at comparatively small expense. Rat holes 
may be permanently closed with a mixture of cement, sand 
and broken glass, or sharp bits of crockery or stone. 

On a foundation like the one described above, the walls 
of a wooden dwelling also may be made rat-proof. The 
space between the sheathing and lath, to the height of about 
a foot, should be filled with concrete. Rats can not then 
gain access to the walls, and can enter the dwelling only 
through doors or windows. Screening all basement and cellar 
windows with wire netting is a most necessary precaution. 

Old Buildings in Cities. — Aside from old dwellings, 
the chief refuges for rats in cities are sewers, wharves, 
stables and outbuildings. Modern sewers are used by the 
animals merely as highways and not as abodes, but old- 
fashioned brick sewers often afford nesting crannies. 

Wharves, stables and outbuildings in cities should be so 
built as to exclude rats. Cement is the chief means to this 
end. Old tumble-down buildings and wharves should not be 
tolerated in any city. 

In both city and country, wooden floors of sidewalks, 
areas, and porches are commonly laid upon timbers resting 
on the ground. Under such floors rats have a safe retreat 
from nearly all enemies. The conditions can be remedied in 
towns by municipal action, requiring that such floors should 



8Q FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

be replaced by others made of cement. Areas or walks 
made of brick are often undermined by rats, and may become 
as objectionable as those of wood. Wooden floors of porches 
should always be well above the ground. 

Farm Buildings. — Granaries, corncribs, and poultry 
houses may he made rat-proof by a liberal use of concrete 
in the foundations and floors; or the floors may be of wood 
resting upon concrete. Objection has been urged against 
concrete floors for horses, cattle, and poultry, because the 
material is too good a conductor of heat, and the health of 
the animal sufifers from contact with these floors. In poultry 
houses, dry soil or sand may be used as a covering for the 
cement floor; and in stables, a wooden floor resting on the 
concrete is just as satisfactory as far as the exclusion of rats 
is concerned. 

The common practice of setting corncribs on posts with 
inverted pans at the top often fails to exclude rats, because 
the posts are not high enough to place the lower cracks of 
the structure beyond reach of the animals. The posts should 
project at least 3 feet above the surface of the ground, for 
rats are excellent jumpers. But a crib built in this manner, 
though cheap, is unsightly. 

For a rat-proof crib, a well drained site should be chosen. 
The outer walls, laid in cement, should be sunk about 20 
inches into the ground. The space within the walls should 
be thoroughly grouted with cement and broken stone and 
finished with rich concrete for a floor. Upon this the struc- 
ture may be built. Even the walls of the crib may be con- 
crete. Corn will not mold in contact with them, provided 
there is good ventilation and the roof is water-tight. 

However, there are cheaper ways of excluding rats from 
either new or old corncribs. Rats, mice and sparrows may be 
efifectually kept out by the use of either an inner or an outer 
covering of galvanized wire netting of half-inch mesh and 



RATS. 87 

heavy enough to resist the teeth of rats. The netting in 
common use for screening cellar windows is suitable for 
covering cribs. As rats can climb the netting, the entire 
structure must be screened. 

Keeping Food From Rats. — The effect of an abundance 
of food on the breeding of rodents should be kept in mind. 
Well-fed rats mature quickly, breed often, and have large 
litters. Poorly fed rats, on the contrary, reproduce less fre- 
quently and have small litters. In addition, scarcity of food 
make measures for destroying the animals far more effective. 

The general rat-proofing of buildings is the most impor- 
tant step in limiting the food supply of rats. But since much 
of the animal's food consists of garbage and other waste 
materials, it is not enough to bar rats from markets, grana- 
ries, warehouses, and private food stores. Garbage and offal 
of all kinds must be so disposed of that rats can not obtain 
them. 

It cities and towns an efficient system of garbage collec- 
tion and disposal should be established by ordinances. Waste 
from markets, hotels, cafes, and households should be col- 
lected in covered metallic receptacles and frequently emptied. 
Garbage should never be dumped in or near towns, but 
should be utilized or promptly destroyed by fire. 

Rats find abundant food in country slaughterhouses; re- 
form in the management of these is badly needed. Such 
places are centers of rat propagation. It is a common prac- 
tice to leave offal of slaughtered anim-als to be eaten by rats 
and swine, and this is the chief means of perpetuating 
trichinae in pork. The law should require offal to be promptly 
cremated or otherwise disposed of. Country slaughterhouses 
should be as cleanly as constantly inspected abattoirs. 

Another important source of rat food is the remnants of 
lunches left by employes in factories, stores and public build- 
ings. This food, which alone is enough to attract and sustain 



88 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

a small army of rats, is commonly left in waste baskets or 
other open receptacles. Strictly enforced rules requiring all 
remnants of food to be deposited in covered metal vessels 
would make trapping far more effective. 

If buildings are infested with rats, wire-screened com- 
partments should be used for storing food. Many merchants 
now keep flour, seeds, meats, and the like in wire cages, and 
the practice should be general. Ice boxes and cold-storage 
rooms may be made proof against rats by an outer covering 
of heavy wire netting of half -inch mesh. Steamboat com- 
panies engaged in carrying high-priced southern produce to 
northern markets can, at small expense, protect the vegetables 
or fruits in screened compartments on both docks and vessels. 
Rats do not gnaw the plane surfaces of hard materials, 
such as wood. They attack doors, furniture, and boxes at 
the angles only. This fact suggests the feasibility of pro- 
tecting chests containing food by light coverings of metal 
along the salient angles. This plan has for years been in 
use to protect naval stores on ships and in warehouses. 

N,TURAL Enemies 
OF Rats. — Among the 
natural enemies of 
rats are the larger 
hawks and owls, 
skunks, foxes, coy- 
otes, weasels, minks, 
dogs, cats and ferrets. 
Probably the great- 
SOME GuuD RATTERS. est factor in the in- 

crease of rats, mice, 
and other destructive rodents in the United States has been 
the persistent killing off of the birds and mammals that prey 
upon them. Animals that on the whole are decidedly bene- 
ficial, since they subsist upon harmful insects and rodents, 




RATS. 89 

are habitually destroyed by some farmers and sportsmen 
because they occasionally kill a chicken or a game bird. 

The value of carnivorous mammals and the larger birds 
of prey in destroying rats should be more fully recognized, 
especially by the farmer and the game preserver. Rats 
actually destroy more poultry and game, both eggs and young 
chicks, than all the birds and wild mammals combined ; yet 
some of our most useful birds of prey and carnivorous 
mammals are persecuted almost to the point of extinction. 
An enlightened public sentiment should cause the repeal of 
all bounties on these animals and afford protection to the 
majority of them. 

Traps. — Owing, to their cunning it is not easy to clean 
premises of rats by trapping; if food is abundant, it is im- 
possible. A few adults refuse to enter the most innocent 
looking trap. And yet trapping, if persistently followed, is 
one of the most effective ways of destroying the animals. 

Cage Trap. — When rats are numerous, the large French 
wire cage traps can be used to advantage. They should be 
made of stiff, heavy wire, well reinforced. Many of those 
sold in hardware stores are useless, because a full grown 
rat can bend the light wires apart and escape. Cage traps 
should be baited and left open for several nights until the 
rats are accustomed to enter them to obtain food. They 
should then be closed and freshly baited, when a large catch 
may (be expected, especially of young rats. As many as 25 
and even more partly grown rats have been taken at a time in 
one of these traps. The writer has had excellent success by 
concealing a cage trap under a bunch of hay or straw, and 
has found by experience that a decoy rat in the trap is useful. 
A commission merchant in Baltimore places the baited cage 
trap inside of a wooden box having a hole in one end and 
against which the opening of the trap is fitted. The box is 
then covered with trash and large catches are made. 



90 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Figure 4 Trigger Trap. — The old-fashioned <box trap set 
with a figure 4 trigger is sometimes useful to secure a wise 
old rat that refuses to be enticed into a modern trap. Better 
still is a simple deadfall — a flat stone or heavy plank — 
supported by a figure 4 trigger. An old rat will go under 
such a contrivance to feed without fear. 

Steel Trap. — The ordinary steel trap (No. or 1) may 
sometimes be satisfactorily employed to capture a rat. The 
animal is usually caught by the foot, and its squealing has a 
tendency to frighten other rats. The trap may be set in a 
shallow pan or box and covered with bran or oats, care being 
taken to have the space under the trigger pan free of grain. 
This may be done by placing a very light bit of cotton under 
the trigger and setting as lightly as possible. In narrow runs 
or at the mouth of burrows a steel trap unbaited and covered 
with very light cloth or tissue paper is often effective. 

The best bait is usually food of a kind that the rats do 
not get in the vicinity. In a meat market, vegetables or 
grain should be used ; in a feed store, meat. As far as pos- 
sible, food other than the bait should be inaccessible while 
trapping is in progress. The bait should be kept fresh and 
attractive, and the kind changed when necessary. Baits and 
traps should be handled as little as possible. Ordinarily, 
traps should be frequently cleaned or smoked. The use of 
artificial scents, as oil of anise or rhodium, on the bait, is 
advocated by many, but no doubt their importance has been 
exaggerated. The experience of the writer is not favorable 
to their use, but they may do some good by concealing the 
human odor on the trap. 

Poisons. -^ While the use of poison is the best and 
quickest way to get rid of rats, the odor from the dead 
animals makes the method impracticable in occupied houses. 
Poison, however, may be effectively used in barns, stables, 
sheds, cribs, and other outbuildings. 



RATS. 91 

Among the principal poisons that have been recommended 
for killing rats' are barium carbonate, strychnine, arsenic and 
phosphorus. 

'Domestic Animals. — Among domestic animals employed 
to kill ratis are the dog, cat and ferret. 

Dogs. — The value of dogs as ratters can not be appre- 
ciated by persons who have had no experience with a 
trained animal. The ordinary cur and the larger breeds of 
dogs seldom develop the^ necessary qualities for ratters. 
Small Irish, Scotch and fox terriers, when properly trained, 
are superior to other breeds, and under favorable circum- 
stances may be relied upon to keep the farm premises 
reasonably free from rats. 

Cats. — However valuable cats may be as mousers, few 
of them learn to catch rats. The ordinary house cat is too 
well fed and consequently too lazy to undertake the capture 
of an animal as formidable as the brown rat. Birds and 
mice are much more to its liking. 

Ferrets. — Tame ferrets, like weasels, are inveterate foes 
of rats, and can follow the rodents into their retreats. Under 
favorable circumstances they are useful aids to the rat catcher, 
but their value is greatly overestimated. For effective work 
they require experienced handling and the additional services 
of a dog or two. Dogs and ferrets must be thoroughly 
accustomed to each other, and the former must be quiet and 
steady instead of noisy and excitable. The ferret is used 
only to bolt the rats, which are killed by the dogs. If un- 
muzzled ferrets are sent into rat retreats, they are apt to 
make a kill and then lie up after sucking the blood of their 
victim. Sometimes they remain for hours in the burrows 
or escape by other exits and are lost. There is danger that 
these lost ferrets may adapt themselves to wild conditions 
and become a pest by preying upon poultry and birds. 



92 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



RATS. 93 

Summary of Recommendations. — The following are 
important aids in limiting the numbers of rats and reducing 
the losses from their depredations : 

1. Protection of our native hawks, owls, and smaller 
predatory mammals — the natural enemies of rats. 

2. Greater cleanliness about stables, markets, grocery 
stores, warehouses, courts, alleys, and vacant lots in cities and 
villages, and like care on farms and suburban premises. 
This includes the storage of waste and garbage in tightly 
covered vessels and the prompt disposal of it each day. 

3. Care in the construction of buildings and drains, so 
as not to provide entrance and retreats for rats, and the 
permanent closing of all rat holes in old houses and cellars. 

4. The early threshing and marketing of grains on 
farms, so that stacks and mows shall not furnish harborage 
and food for rats. 

5. Removal of outlying straw stacks and piles of trash 
or lumber that harbor rats in the fields. 

6. Rat-proofing of warehouses, markets, cribs, stables 
and granaries for storage of provisions, seed grain, and feed- 
stuffs. 

7. Keeping effective rat dogs, especially on farms and 
in city warehouses. 

8. The systematic destruction of rats, whenever and 
wherever possible, by (a) trapping, (b) poisoning, and (c) 
organized hunts. 

9. The organization of rat clubs and other societies for 
systematic warfare against rats. 

While there is much of value in the foregoing 
taken from the writing of Mr. David E. Lantz, 
and printed at Washington, too much depend- 
ence should not be put in poisoning. It may be 



94 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

a quick way to get rid of live rats but is apt to 
prove very disagreeable before all after effects 
are eradicated. The odor from a dead and decay- 
ing rat is hardly bearable to say the least. At 
best, poisoning is not one of the safest methods 
to adopt. While a few can usually be caught in 
traps, they soon learn to "steer clear" of such 
whether the common steel trap or the wire or the 
wooden affair. Where rats are numerous 
or hard to get "shet of," ferrets are to be 
recommended. 



CHAPTER IX. 

FERRETS AND RATS. 

CHE natural disposition of the ferret is to 
drive, kill and hunt its own living. It is 
also a very keen scented little animal, and 
upon smelling the rat or rats in their holes 
or where they have been running around, will 
find them. For rat hunting ferrets should be 
older than for rabbits. While those a year or 
older are best yet many are successfully used 
that are five to twelve months of age. Various 
methods are used in training for rat hunting. 
Perhaps the following is as good as anj : First 
get a young rat and put it in the box with the 
ferret. If you can't get a young rat, use an old 
one, but cripple it by breaking its tushes. After 
they have killed two or three in this way they 
can be used in barns or wherever there are rat 
holes. The ferret or ferrets will enter the holes 
and chase the rats out. 

In hunting rats where there are many dens, 
holes or hiding places, so that the rats run from 
one to the other, two or more ferrets will do the 
work much quicker than one. Put the ferret or 
ferrets in holes or under the building, or wher- 

95 



96 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

ever rat signs are most plentiful and you are apt 
to hear rats squeal. Be on the watch with club 
or clog and kill as they come out. Kats run for 
their lives as soon as a ferret approaches but if 
no other outlet will turn and fight savagely. A 
single rat is no match for an old or experienced 
ferret. Rats are very cautious and will not stay 
about a place where ferrets are kept and worked. 
Ferrets have a peculiar and strong odor or smell 
that is very objectionable to rats generally caus- 
ing them to soon leave. 

The small sized ferrets are best for rat hunt- 
ing, as the large ones can't get into the holes as 
readily, and in some not at all. Most of the old 
rats will get out of the way, unless several fer- 
rets are being used, but all young will be killed 
by the ferrets while ^'ferreting" out the dens. 
Rats are usually found where there are more 
than one entrance, or way to escape from their 
den, so that one ferret has difficult work in 
catching many of the old or full grown. Where 
rats are numerous it is policy to use several fer- 
rets for then the rats not caught will be run 
from their dens and hiding places. Men and 
good dogs ( not too many ) can be of much assist- 
ance in killing and catching as the ferrets chase 
them out. It is said that a ferret put in a cellar 
where there are rats will rid the place of the 



FERRETS AND RATS. 97 

pests within a day. Possibly if rats were very 
numerous one ferret might be overpowered. 

I doubt if any raiser or handler has better 
explained how to use for rats than Mr. C. 
Bremen, of Danville, Illinois, who in his catalog 
gives methods of Working Ferrets on Rats as 
follows : 

"To hunt, drive and kill is a ferret's natural 
instinct and disposition. If a ferret has been 
well handled and cared for and is of the proper 
age, very little training is necessary to make fine 
ratters of them. They can be started to chase 
rats when they are four months old, but there 
cannot be as much expected from one of this age 
as from a yearling ferret. For ordinary use on 
a farm, about the house, barn, granary and other 
buildings, one pair of yearlings, will usually 
answer the purpose, and effectually clear out the 
rats. In grain elevators, warehouses and places 
where rats are found by the thousands, it is best 
to have from three to six ferrets. We know of 
men who make a business of rat catching gener- 
ally using about six yearling ferrets and success- 
fully clear out place after place of rats. 

The question is often asked. Can ferrets be 
used by people who are not professional rat- 
catchers? In regard to this, I wish to say the 
ferrets will do the work if they are given the 



98 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

chance, so no one need be a professional rat- 
catcher in order to handle the ferret to advan- 
tage. They can be used by anybody. There are 
bo3^s in every neighborhood who could take a 
pair of ferrets and enjoy the sport of hunting 
rats. The best place to work ferrets the first 
time is under the plank floors 6f stables or hog 
pens. In such places there are usually a large 
number of rats, and the ferrets will get them 
started in short time. Ferrets can follow rats 
anywhere, and after they have hunted a few 
times, they will work harder and hunt in small 
holes and more diflflcult places. 

To hunt rats it is a good plan to get several 
men with clubs to kill the rats which escape 
from the ferrets. Guns are often used, but in 
the excitement a ferret may be mistaken for a rat 
and killed. Then liberate the ferret or ferrets 
where the rats have been working. Ferrets hunt 
by scent, and upon smelling the rats they will 
soon enter the holes. Then watch out. The rats 
will run in all directions and the person quickest 
with the club will get the most rats. A rat will 
not show fight unless a ferret gets it cornered. 
A ferret soon learns to hold on a rat, and will 
kill them as fast as it can get to them. Ferrets 
work under and around a building. When they 
come out hunting for the rats, pick them up and 



FERRETS AND RATS. 99 

put them in the holes where the rats were seen 
making their escape. The}^ will chase the rats 
from one building to another, and thus the men 
will be able to kill most of them with their clubs. 
The ferrets will kill all the young rats they find 
in the nests. They will not stop to eat a rat, 
however, as long as there is a rat left in the holes 
to be killed. 

"We do not advise the use of a muzzle in 
working ferrets on rats. When the ferrets have a 
litter of young they will bring out all the rats 
they kill for the young ferrets to eat. After they 
have hunted for an hour or two they should be 
put back in their pens. Give the ferrets a few 
such hunts and the rats will leave. Rats are 
very cautious animals and are afraid of ferrets. 
They will not stay in the holes where ferrets are 
worked occasionally. Hunting rats with ferrets 
is great amusement. The boys especially take an 
interest in this sport. Buy the boy a pair of fer- 
rets and he will soon have your place cleared of 
rats. Ferrets can be turned loose in cellars, 
mills and storerooms and they thoroughly rid 
the place of rats. The usual way is to have a pen 
to keep them in when they are not being worked. 

Ferrets are particularly valuable to poultry 
men to protect young chickens from the rats. A 
rat will often carry off a whole brood of chickens 



100 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

in one night. Ferrets can be worked to great 
advantage around cliicken liouses and yards. 
They cannot catch chickens which are running 
loose. There is no trouble along this line, yet it 
is not to be expected that chickens and ferrets 
could be kept in a box together. A pair of our 
early spring ferrets will do a great deal of good 
in keeping the rats away, even while the ferrets 
are quite young. They will run through the 
holes and chase the rats away. A good way to 
start young ferrets is to put mice in their pens 
for them to kill and eat. As soon as they handle 
mice, young rats may be put in their pens. If 
the rats are too large they should be crippled so 
the young ferrets can easily kill them. They 
will soon get so they can kill any rat, and then 
they are ready to take out for a rat hunt. We 
have had ferrets only five months old handle 
large rats." 

In response to an inquiry from St. Nicholas 
magazine, Mr. Cline, Superintendent of Con- 
struction of the Central Union Telephone Com- 
pany of Indianapolis, Indiana, some years ago 
wrote as follows regarding the use of ferrets in 
laying telephone wires : 

"I beg to acknowledge receipt of your inquiry 
concerning the use of a ferret in connection with 
rodding our underground ducts, as we call it, 



FERRETS AND RATS. 



101 



and in reply thereto you may be advised that Ave 
have used the little animals very successfully at 
Indianapolis, Terre Haute, Lafayette and Hunt- 
ington, Indiana. 

"When we first began to use them we baited 
them or enticed them through the duct by hang- 
ing a piece of raw meat at the opposite end, but 





1 


Ik ft 


■ ' i 




FERRET, HARNESSED AND 
MUZZLED, CHASING A RAT 
THROUGH AN UNDER- 
GROUND DUCT, DRAGGING 
TWINE BY WHICH WORK- 
MEN PULL THROUGH A TEL- 




EPHONE WIRE. 



our latest experiments have been by the use of a 
live rat, started through the duct ahead of the 
ferret, which entices the ferret to follow the rat 
through the section of duct to the next manhole, 
where the rat is caged and used for another 
section. 

"Before starting the ferret through the duct, 
he is harnessed up with a collar and girth, to 



102 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



which is attached the end of a ball of lacing 
twine. As the ferret goes through the duct he 
pulls the lacing twine after him and when he 
reaches the other end we have a string through 
the section of duct, by means of which we pull a 
small wire through and with this wire the pull- 



CATCHING RAT AND FERRET IN 
DOUBLE CAGE, AFTER THE 
LACING TWINE HAS BEEN 
DRAGGED THROUGH THE 
DUCT. 




ing-in rope is drawn through the duct. The 
pulling-in rope may be either one and one- 
quarter inch manila or a five-eighths inch flex- 
ible wire. 

"We also keep the ferrets well fed until 
within about twenty-four hours before they are 
used, as the tendency of a ferret is to do better 
work when he is hungry." 



CHAPTER X. 

FERRETS AND RABBITS. 

M ■ RABBIT never fights although it can 
■J scratch and bite. About all they ever do 
W I when caught bj man, dog or ferret is to 
*^ ■ lay back their long ears and squeal. 
Their means of self-preservation is largely in 
their legs for they are swift runners, yet they 
soon hole when chased from their nest. In win- 
ter and especially during severe weather the 
majority hole up, except at night, when they 
come out for something to eat. Such being the 
nature of the rabbit it is game on which ferret 
hunting can begin at an early age — four months 
or thereabouts. 

Right here is a good place to call attention 
to the fact that the short, open lawful season for 
rabbit hunting has tended to increase the supply 
in even many of the thickly settled states. In 
certain localities farmers, gardeners, horticul- 
turists, etc., are complaining of rabbits gnawing 
young fruit trees. Here is a splendid opportu- 
nity of helping the land owner get rid of the 

103 



104 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

rabbits as well as affording a few days sport to 
yourself, ferret and friends. The property owner 
hopes you will catch every one of the four footed, 
swift running, gnawing rascals. He don't care 
either how you get them. So destructive are the 
rabbits to young orchards, in many states, that 
unless trees are wrapped, or in some way pro- 
tected during the winter, entire orchards are 
ruined. Rabbits are more partial to apple and 
peach trees than to other fruits it seems. In 
such localities land owners wish the rabbits 
killed off as early as possible, before severe 
weather, for they are not apt to bother fruit 
trees until the ground is frozen or covered with 
snow. 

That ferrets are used successfully on rabbits 
is amply proven from the fact that laws in some 
states prohibit their use only under certain con- 
ditions. These ^'conditions" vary in the states 
having laws of this kind. The following was in 
effect in Ohio at date this book was printed: 
^'No ferrets shall be used in catching or hunting 
rabbits, except by the owner or lessee of lands, 
or a bona fide employee of such owner or lessee 
and when they are destroying or injuring trees, 
shrubbery, grain, berries or fruit." 



FERRETS AND RABBITS. 



105 



To know how to use 
ferrets successfully 
comes from experience, 
and the inexperienced 
will have more or less 
trouble, especially if 
their ferret has not been 
handled a good deal 
prior to being used in 
actual hunting. Some 
of the points to be re- 
membered when trying 
for rabbits are: Silence 
is of much importance; 
heavy walking, loud 
talking, scratching of 
dog at mouth of den, all 
combine to interfere with the ferret's work by 
making the rabbit remain in the ground. Always 
put the ferret in at the lowest entrance if there 
is more than one. Never handle your ferret 
roughly and keep it warm and dry. Coaxing is 
much better than trying to drive them. Use one 
ferret at a time only as you wish to drive out, 
not kill. If two or more, unless muzzled, were 
put into a den they would be sure to catch and 
kill. 




HUNTING RABBITS WITH 
DOG, FERRET AND GUN. 



106 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Again some of the most successful users of 
ferrets are the inexperienced. Like the small 
boy with the willow pole, string and a bent pin 
for the hook catching more fish than the expe- 
rienced angler with his costly tackle. In this 
connection the following simple explanation by 
a boy using a ferret will not be out of place, 
especially w^as the fact known that his explana- 
tion was given to several '^sports" who had been 
out after rabbits but had failed. Hailing the 
boy they bought what he had then asked several 
questions as he had no dog while they had sev- 
eral. Learning that he used a ferret they wanted 
to know how they were used, etc. "Well," said 
the boy, "when you go hunting take your ferret, 
put it in a rabbit hole and it will go in driving 
out the rabbit. All you have to do is to shoot the 
rabbit and wait for the ferret as it will follow 
the rabbit out, put it in your hunting coat pocket 
and go to another hole. I forgot to say that you 
must know how to shoot or the rabbit will keep 
on running. I let the rabbits get 25 to 35 yards 
away then aim one yard ahead and by the time 
the shot get where the rabbit ought to be they 
are both there. 

"I never had any experience with mink and 
skunk, just rabbits and rats. So far this season 
I have got 109 rabbits with my ferret. One day 



FERRETS AND RABBITS. 107 

last week my female ferret ran 7 rabbits from 
under one hay stack. They all came out within 
a minute I think, but I got four of them. I 
tracked two of the others to a hole and got them, 
making six out of the seven. 

"Yes, I will be out tomorrow over round the 
briar patch and in the John Collier orchard 
where there are always rabbits. Same price as 
today but don't know how many will have — some 
though I spec." 

In using a young ferret there is not much 
danger of the rabbit being caught under ground 
and even if such should happen the rabbit is 
almost certain to come out with the ferret cling- 
ing to it. An old ferret or one that is extra 
quick and large, having had much experience, 
may sometimes kill in the den. When using a 
ferret of this description it probably is advisable 
to use muzzle (see explanation in chapter on 
Ferret Contrivances) as they are apt to remain 
in den until eating their fill. 

When ferrets "lie-up" it is up to the hunter 
to do one of several things. 1st. Wait awhile for 
the ferret to eat his fill with the hope it will 
then come out. 2d. Paunch a warm or recently 
killed rabbit, if you have one, and if more 
than one entrance place to windward side. 3d. 
Pound or stamp on ground immediately over 



108 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




FERRETS AND RABBITS. 109 

ferret or as near as it can be located. 4th. If 
the den is a shallow one dig. 5th. Stop all the 
exits and fill the mouth of den where the ferret 
was put in with grass, leaves, or anything that 
will answer for a nest. Plug or cover entrance 
securely. Next morning early go back when 
chances are you will find your ferret asleep in 
the nest. If not chances are it will come when 
called. 

If ferreting rabbits where there is snow on 
the ground put the ferret back as far as possible 
before letting touch the ground. Should there 
be snow in the entrance better clean out before 
putting the ferret in. The rabbit can be caught 
in the hands by inserting as far back as possible 
and apart. It requires quick work or the rabbit 
will go through "slick as a whistle" and you 
won't even "catch a hair." Sometimes when 
seeing your hands the rabbit will go back and is 
pretty sure to be caught by the ferret which is 
following it out. If this should happen ferret 
will generally remain in den until eating its fill. 
Another plan is to place a net or sack over the 
entrance to den so that when it bolts past ferret 
and for mouth of den it goes direct into this 
receptacle or trap. 

Many ferrets are used by those who enjoy 
shooting. If hunting with dogs one or more fer- 



110 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

rets are taken and when a rabbit gets to earth 
the ferret is put in the hole. One or more shoot- 
ers stand near and when the rabbit seeks safety 
in the open again offers a chance to the shooters. 
On certain daj^s few rabbits "nest" out but seek 
warm quarters in the ground. Such days may 
be windy and cold or may be stormy only or 
again ground covered with snow. The rabbit 
hunter who enjoys "shooting to ferrets" makes 
the round of likely dens. The ferret is placed in 
the hole and developments awaited. Sometimes 
two, three or even more rabbits have come out, 
in quick succession, offering a number of shots 
in a short space of time. Under hay stacks is a 
good place to find rabbits on a cold or stormy 
day. As many as a half dozen have been routed 
from a single stack, especially if built a few 
inches off the ground, on rails or other material 
or having dens under. A couple of hunters, one 
at either side, can enjoy "ending the rabbits" 
when they get a few rods away. 

While there is little or no difference in the 
hunting qualities of the white or brown, male or 
female, yet a four months old ferret cannot 
stand as much work as one somewhat older. 
Some users of ferrets claim that they have had 
best results when using a certain kind. This, 
however, in all probability was not due to the 



FERRETS AND RABBITS. Ill 

color of ferret but the day was one that rabbits 
bolted easily for there are such days. Rabbits 
bolt best when the weather is settled. They bolt 
well when there is a set or heavy frost, also after 
a fall of snow when it has started to freeze again. 
Warm, muggy or low heavy cloudy days they 
stick close to the den and it requires much ^'per- 
severance" from a ferret to get them to bolt-leave 
the den. 

A good time to hunt rabbits with a ferret is 
therefore a bright, cold, crisp day or one just 
after a snow. Tlie latter offers an extra induce- 
ment, to the party who does not own a dog, for 
the tracks will reveal most likely dens. 



CHAPTER XI. 

FERRETS AND GROUND SQUIRRELS, GOPHERS, 
PRAIRIE DOGS. 

CHE English sparrow, which was brought to 
America from Europe, seems to be a pest 
with no redeeming qualities whatever. 
How unlike the sparrow is the ferret, 
which also came to this country from Europe. 
East of the Misp'ssippi river they have been used 
to hunt rabbits ever since reaching this side of 
the Atlantic. Shortly after 1900 ferrets were 
used with some success on certain fur animals, 
more especially skunk and mink. Throughout 
much of the West, which in a general way will 
here be defined as that portion of the country 
west of the Mississippi river as well as parts of 
Canada, ground squirrels, gophers and prairie 
dogs are not only a nuisance, but quite a pest to 
various interests. 

In the earlier accounts of the prairie dog 
most writers had rattlesnakes and owls inhabit- 
ing same burrows. While owls and rattlesnakes 
inhabit same region and sometimes take refuge 
in the dens of prairie dogs they do not all live 
harmonious as some writers, who know little or 

112 



FERRETS, GROUND SQUIRRELS, ETC. 



113 



nothing of natural history, have set forth. 
Prairie dogs feed upon grass and roots. Their 
burrows are numerous, long and often deep. The 
habits and nature of these animals however will 
not be taken up here. 




THE WILD OR BLACK FOOTED FERRET, 



Reports from trappers are to the effect that 
the wild or black footed ferret has exterminated 
more than one village or prairie dog town. Such 
being the case why should not trained, tame or 
domesticated ferrets be of considerable value on 
these animals? For some years certain raisers 
of ferrets have stated that farmers and grain 



114 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

growers where gophers destroyed crops, should 
keep ferrets, claiming if they knew their worth 
they would never be without a number. One of 
the first breeders and raisers of ferrets, as far 
back as 1904, published some letters from pur- 
chasers of his stock. One of these from the state 
of Kansas, was to the effect that they cleaned 
out the prairie dog towns. Another from the 
state of Washington showed how effective they 
were in hunting ground squirrel. Both letters 
or testimonials are herewith published. The 
Kansas letter is as follows : 

"Here I am again to see you about the fer- 
rets. We have given the ferrets a thorough test, 
and you can advertise them for killing prairie 
dogs with perfect safety for they will do it all 
right. They are not so very fast, but are a sure 
shot. Judging from the way they are working 
two pairs will clean out from 70 to 100 acres in 
three or four months. We have several dog 
towns of 100 acres each. The old ferrets do fine, 
but we do not want any young ones to kill the 
dogs with. What will be your price on two pairs 
of fully matured ferrets that are a year old? We 
want to clean out the dogs and we can if you 
send us what we want. The way I manage the 
ferrets is to keep them in a good sized box with 
a wire front for two or three weeks and then I 



FERRETS, GROUND SQUIRRELS^ ETC. 115 

take the box out to the dog town, commencing at 
one end. As they clean up the holes I move the 
box farther on. The dogs don't get behind them, 
you bet. No danger of a dog occupying a hole 
worked by ferrets. I close the box tight except a 
small hole for the ferrets to go in and out. I 
also have a small door in it and have a dish to put 
water and milk in which I take out once a day. 
I hardly ever see the ferrets but they are in the 
box a great deal and are not wild; when I see 
them I can pick them up without any trouble. 
The box makes it more homelike for them, and 
they will clean the holes on all sides out from the 
box so we can tell what they are doing. Write 
at once so we will know what to do.'' 

A good many years ago the following ap- 
peared in the Spokesman Eeview, Spokane, 
Washington : 

^^W. A. Davis has discovered a new and effi- 
cient method of destroying squirrels. Mr. Davis 
sent to the state of Iowa for some ferrets, which 
he used to hunt squirrels, which are one of the 
greatest pests of this section. The ferrets are 
trained to go into the holes after the squirrels 
and either catch and kill them or drive them out 
of the holes where dogs catch them. Mr. Davis 
took three ferrets and two dogs and went into 
the fields. In less than two hours he had killed 



116 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

sixty-two squirrels. Mr. Davis exhibited the fer- 
rets at Colfax recently and they attracted much 
attention. He says they are the most successful 
squirrel exterminators he has ever tried. He 
believes it will pay farmers of the Palouse coun- 
try to breed ferrets and train them to hunt squir- 
rels and further thinks that systematic effort 
along this line will eventually solve the squirrel 
problem. With half a dozen industrious ferrets 
a farm could soon be cleared of squirrels, and 
once they were driven out it would be compara- 
tively easy to keep them exterminated." 

A raiser, breeder and seller of ferrets located 
in Illinois, who has followed the business for 
many years says that ferrets one year old will 
drive out ground squirrels ( large western kind ) , 
goplieis and prairie dogs but that younger or 
inexperienced hunters should not be tried on 
these animals. Several ferrets should be used, 
or liberated at the same time, where these pests 
are numerous. As some of the pests here men- 
tioned are still found near the raiser alluded to 
he should be familiar with what his animals can 
and will do. 

The ground squirrel in the East is different 
from the western variety and is not such a pest. 
The western variety is larger than the little 



FERRETS, GROUND SQUIRRELS^ ETC. 117 




SgUIRRELS-PESTS OF THE WESTERN FARMERS. 



118 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

striped fellow called chipmunk in the East which 
is so small that ferrets could not enter its den. 

In some states the use of ferrets on rabbits is 
unlawful, although an exception is generally 
made where they are destroying young fruit 
trees or otherwise doing damage. Ground squir- 
rels, gophers and prairie dogs are considered 
pests wherever found. So far no law prohibiting 
the hunting and destroying of these with ferrets 
has been enacted and probably never will. To 
hunt these with ferrets is sport as well as ridding 
the land of pests. 



CHAPTEK XII. 

FERRETS AND MINK, SKUNK, RACCOON, ETC. 

^TWLTHOUGH the ferret has been used prin- 
m^t cipally on rabbits and rats yet now and 
W I then a user has been experimenting on 
•^ ■ furbearing animals. The success has 
not been so great as with rabbits and rats. It 
requires an older ferret to hunt rats than rabbits 
and for fur animals still older and more expe- 
rienced hunters and fighters should be used. 

Prior to 1900 ferrets had not been thought of 
(or at any rate little used) in connection with 
hunting fur animals. Not until about 1906, 
when mink and skunk skins became quite valu- 
able, were thej employed by the fur hunter or 
catcher. A few who were expert handlers of 
ferrets on rats and rabbits, saw an opportunity, 
began training or hunting for mink, skunk and 
other fur animals that might be located or driven 
from the den, log or other hiding place. 

Ferrets that had been handled and hunted a 
great deal on other animals were used for this 
kind of hunting which is of the guess work kind. 
That is dens were ferreted whether known to be 
occupied or not. Such being the case only a well 

119 



120 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




trained ferret should be used as numerous dens 
were tried in which, of course, there was nothing. 
A Avell trained ferret will come out, as soon as 
the den is examined, if containing no game. 

One ferret will not, as a rule, drive out a 
mink. Those who have been most successful 

have used two large 
ones at least a year old. 
Mink are usualh^ an 
easy animal to rout. 
Many instances are 
known where dogs hav- 
ing located a mink it 
left the den by stamp- 
ing or pounding on the 
ground over where it 
was supposed to be. 
This, more especially, is 
the case where the den 
is a shallow one. 

While a ferret or even 
two would probably not be a match for an old 
male mink yet their nature is such that they 
dodge from den to den, so that chances are that 
a mink Avould seek safety in flight rather than 
fight. If cornered a mink Avill put up a des- 
perate fight for an animal its size. If the mink 
is a female it will be apt to run out, at once, 



LARGE OLD FERRET. 



FERRETS, MINK, SKUNK, RACCOON, ETC. 121 

unless during mating season when such probably 
^^ ill not be the case. While ferrets and mink do 
not cross, or breed, yet being in the same family 
(mustcJichic) may be congenial and not inclined 
to figlit. 

A party who has ^^ferreted'^ a good deal for 
mink says : 'They are used with fair success to 
drive or run mink from holes. Use a large male 
ferret and if there is a mink in the hole you will 
hear them fighting. Keep back a rod or so and 
the mink may run out, as they often do. Now 
shoot or let the dog loose, if you have one. 
During February and March, which is the mink 
running season, if a male ferret goes in where 
there is a female mink they will not fight and 
the ferret is apt to stay. 

Nature of the skunk is much different than 
that of the mink. So far but few skunk have 
been driven from their dens by ferrets. Those 
however who have had considerable den expe- 
rience in handling ferrets, and are close observers 
of their habits and peculiarities, can readily tell 
when they have gone in a den occupied by a 
skunk or skunks. The ferret will come out usu- 
ally with fur and tail bristled up very much like 
a cat when chased and treed by a dog. On the 
other hand some ferrets will not go into a hole 
where there is a skunk. If ferret or ferrets are 



122 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

large, old, savage and persistent fighters they 
sometimes are able to make a skunk ^'perfume'^ 
which is conclusive evidence that there is fur 
within, but no skunk will show at the entrance. 
There may be exceptions where the den is shal- 
low but forty-nine times out of fifty the skunk 
or skunks will not leave their nest. 

In many states the digging out or destroy- 
ing of dens is prohibited by law. Even if such 
is not the case digging is not recommended. A 
trap set in the entrance and hole plugged up out- 
side of trap will be very apt to make a catch the 
first night. Skunk or skunks generally leave a 
den the first night after being disturbed. 

A ferret user in one of the Central states has 
the following to say: ^'In hunting skunk the 
ferret will not drive them out but will stir them 
up and the smell will inform you that there is a 
skunk in the hole. For skunk and mink hunting, 
they must be bred for that purpose, for if not 
properly bred, they will not hunt them very well. 
In order to have them hunt skunk they should be 
bred the same as a good fox dog or a good coon 
hound. Two parents that have been good skunk 
hunters will produce young that take to this 
kind of hunting readily." 

Another party who has used ferrets consid- 
erable in the state of Arkansas says: "I find 



FERRETS, MINK, SKUNK, RACCOON, ETC. 123 

that the only thing that can whip my ferrets here 
is the groundhog and opossum, that is, those that 
live in the ledges.'' 

A party in Minnesota who has raised ferrets 
for several years says: "While rabbits and 
brown rats are the most common animals that 
ferrets are used for however some will drive out 
mink but never saw one that would tackle a 
skunk. Generally speaking ferrets are too large 
to be of much use in hunting the common ground 
squirrel, yet I have used half-grown ones for 
squirrels with success." 

A ferret user in the state of West Virginia 
who has a great deal of experience in hunting 
with these animals says: "Once while out rab- 
bit hunting in the morning, when there was no 
snow on the ground, my dog trailed around 
through the forest, and at last went to barking 
in a cliff of rocks. I went to him, thinking it 
was only a rabbit. I let my ferret down and in. 
The ferret was gone about a minute when I 
heard the supposed rabbit start. The noise grew 
a little loud for a rabbit and just then I caught 
sight of a large raccoon coming out. As soon as 
it was outside of the hole, the dog and I killed it. 

"On another occasion my dog kept trailing 
around an overhanging rock, under which wavS a 
lot of leaves. I thought possibly there was a 



124 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




FERllETS, MINK, SKUNK, RACCOON, ETC. 125 

burrow or den back in this hollow place. So I 
put the ferret in the leaves, and stood ready to 
open fire on what I thought was a rabbit. All 
at once I heard an awful rumbling noise and a 
pheasant came flopping out. 

"I once put a ferret up in a small hollow in a 
beech tree, on an old male grey squirrel. The 
ferret immediately attacked the squirrel and 
worked some eight or ten minutes but could not 
start the squirrel. At last the ferret came down 
unhurt, then I twisted the squirrel out with a 
grape vine.'^ 

The following is from a part}^ living in Du- 
buque Count}^, Iowa : "One morning when there 
was about an inch and a half of snow I took Old 
Billy, my ferret, gun, and started to go over my 
trap line. I had taken the ferret along once 
before to chase a weasel out of a hole, which the 
ferret did nicely. I saw the weasel go in the hole 
so thought would try the ferret. I put Billy in 
the hole and watched ready with my .22 repeater 
to see or hear the fun. I had to wait only a 
minute or so when out came the weasel with the 
ferret on him. Well he sure did finisli tliat toy. 

"Now back to where I started. The first hole 
I came to saw where a skunk had gone in. I 
hesitated a few minutes then decided to try Old 
Billy once. It would probably mean either death 



126 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

to him or the skunk. I knew my ferret was a 
large and powerful one so decided to put him in 
the hole. I let him down at the mouth of the den 
and in he went. I stood anxiously waiting for a 
few minutes when suddenly I got a whiff of per- 
fume and just then out came the skunk and fer- 
ret. I picked up my gun but by this time the 
ferret had the skunk by the neck and soon 
choked it to death. 

"Well if I ever was proud of Old Billy I sure 
was after he had killed that skunk. I have sent 
him in other holes and he has chased them out. 
I wouldn't sell him for |25.00 — he is better than 
steel traps." 

The most successful users of ferrets for 
skunks locate the animals by their patting, 
which is probably done to scare the intruder. 
Experienced skunk hunters and trappers, and 
especially skunk diggers, know that when a 
skunk in den is closely approached by man or 
dog they are apt to pat. This is done with their 
front feet and can be heard for a rod or two. 
Some ferrets will not fight a skunk but will 
approach within about two feet and stop, when_ 
the skunk is very apt to pat. When the ferret is 
put in the den place your head as far down the 
den as possible and listen, keeping quiet. 



FERRETS, MINK, SKUNK, RACCOON, ETC. 127 

Chances are good that if there is a skunk or 
skunks within you will hear them. 

A ferret that has tackled a few skunks is apt 
to become wise and not take hold, as they do not 
like their perfume. Such a ferret will usually 
enter a den but is not apt to tackle yet may go 
near enough to cause the skunk to pat (thinking 
that it will frighten the intruder). The ferret 
may stay for a few minutes or come out excited 
and bristled up. Some ferrets, however, have 
been known to rout skunk from their nests Avith- 
out causing them to pat or scent and then lie 
down in the warm nest. Others come out but do 
not show by their actions that there is game or 
fur within. The "pat" method, however, is one 
of the best for locating skunk yet the would-be 
fur catcher by this method should not lose sight 
of the fact that only a small per cent of dens 
contain game of this kind. 



CHAPTEK XIII. 

1 ERKET CONTRIVANCES. 

IF ferrets have been handled considerable and 
properly there will nsnally be no necessity 
for nsing ninzzles, harness or other ferret 
devices, or contrivances, now npon the mar- 
ket. Some cnt off the four long teeth or tusks 
(two on each jaw) of ferrets a year or older 
when used for rabbits only. Ferrets so treated 
cannot kill a rabbit and should they grab and 
hang chances are that bunny will either get loose 
or come out of the den dragging* the ferret. 

In handling sick ferrets it is advisable to 
muzzle. Some use thick gloves only, yet when 
a ferret is sick it is usually cross and more apt 
to bite than at other times. Again a bite at such 
times is more risky than when the animal is 
enjoying good health. The bite of a ferret is not 
considered poisonous, yet better take no chances. 
Thick leather gloves can be worn in handling 
and training ferrets until they become accus- 
tomed to you, as they are unable to bite through. 

Carrying — The first and most important 
contrivance to be considered in connection with 
ferrets and ferreting is a pocket, bag or box to 

128 



FERRET CONTRIVANCES. 129 

carry the ferret in. These animals should be 
carried, in such a way that there will be no dan- 
ger of hurting. A good many ferret users carry 
in a game-coat pocket, sack or canvas bag ; none 
of which are very satisfactory. In a coat pocket 
they may be injured when you are climbing a 
fence or going through brush. 

A very good carrying sack can be made of 
heavy cloth (duck, however, is better) with 
leather lined bottom and ends. The front had 
also best be leather and must have small holes 
sufficient to let air in or ferret will smother. 
The leather bottom and ends makes the bag stiff 
so the ferret can lie down and rest if desired. 
The bag had best be carried under the coat 
on cold days to keep the ferret warm. In some 
states where the law is strict, no doubt, they will 
be carried under coat if weather is warm. 

None of the carriers mentioned are really as 
good as a small box with a handle. The box is 
not only more sanitary but is really more con- 
venient for the ferret. A box 12 inches long by 
4 wide and 4 high will accommodate one while for 
tw^o same length and height by 6 wide. They can 
be carried in a smaller box but for all day trips 
this size is about right for the larger sized fer- 



130 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

rets. Some are made with a 'division thus 
keeping tlie animals separate. 

Rabbit Net — This contrivance can be no 
better explained than to (juote from a descriptive 
circular sent out by the makers who say: ^'See- 
ing the bad results of darkening the exit of a den 
or burrow by the use of a sack, bag, or trying to 
catch the rabbit with the hands, often driving it 
back to be caught by the ferret, causing it to 'lie 
up.' Again where you cannot shoot on account 




A GOOD RABBIT NET. 

of horses or other stock being nearby, we realize 
the great need of a net to be used by the sports- 
man. Not long since we placed on the market a 
net that is so simple that a child can operate it 
perfectly. This net will not darken the exit in 
the least, and the bolt of the rabbit against it 
locks the net securely with the rabbit within. 
This net is made of strong, light, seine twine, 
hand made, and will last a lifetime. This net 
can be carried in the pocket." 



FERRET CONTRIVANCES. 131 

The illustration shows the net. Immediately 
after a ferret is put in a clen the net is placed 
over the mouth of den. The two strings going 
through rings near right hand can either be held 
or fastened. They have also been used to some 
extent on mink and other animals that can be 
routed from the den by a ferret or ferrets. 

Muzzles — A ferret known to be a "killer'' 
and "lays up" should be muzzled. It is usually 
only the old and experienced or large, strong, 
savage fighters that develop these bad traits. On 
such a muzzle can be used, similar to the old- 
fashioned dog muzzle, consisting of thin, nar- 
row, little strips of leather. One loop goes over 

the nose or snout of the 
ferret, another round 
the neck close up to the 
head. Two strips con- 
nect the two — one on 
top the other under- 
neath. The smaller 

THE OLD-FASHIONED MUZZLE., , . ,. ^ 

band is slipped over 

nose; the one which goes around neck is usually 

fastened with a small buckle. See illustration. 

There is another model of muzzle, made or 

manufactured somewhere in Northern Ohio, 




133 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



called Adjustable Ferret Muzzle, but wlietlier it 
is an improvement over the one just described 
we are unable to say. The illustration shows the 
Adjustable with strings for tying. A pretty 
good idea of this muzzle can be had from illus- 
tration. It should be made of light leather, cut 
and sewed together to fit 
over nose and jaws. Eye 
holes should be about f- 
inch in diameter and end 
or opening for nose |-inch. 




ADJUSTABLE MUZZLE FOR^ 
FERRETS. 



This Y>'ill allow end of nose 
to come through less than 
an inch but so that holes 
come over the animal's 
eyes. If rightly adjusted 
the ferret will not be 
able to open mouth wide 
enough to catch. Holes are cut or punched in 
the leather through which a string is run and 
tied around neck just back of head. The longest 
or top part extends back several inches and is 
tied back of the forelegs as further precaution 
to keep on. 

Ferret Harness — This is a simple arrange- 
ment. It consists of two strips of light leather 
•J-inch wide and 6 long. These go around the 



FERRET CONTRIVANX'ES. 



133 




HARNESS FOR FERRETS. 



body — one in front and 
the other back of the 
shoulders. The length 
of each of the two cross 
strips is 2f inches. One 
of the cross pieces has a 
hole in which a string- 
can be attached. 

Some nse this or sim- 
ilar harness for train- 
ing and working ferrets 
but if they have been rightly handled there is 
little or no need of such an arrangement. Har- 
ness are used principally on slow ferrets or 
where time cannot be spared. The illustration 
Avill tend to make plainer should you wish to 
make or use. They are easily put on and taken 
off and are not so bothersome or disagreeable to 
ferrets as some other "contrivances.'' Instead of 
the harness as shown some have simply tied a 
string so it will not slip around the ferret's neck 
or foot. 

In this connection the following from a 
party who has had experience may be of interest 
and value: "Some ferrets will hunt all right 
without a harness or string, but it is safest to 
use a means of inducing them to come out. 
Always keep the ferret warm, as it may not want 



134 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

to come out if it is cold. I once had a ferret that 
would always kill the rabbit in the hole and 
would not come out. I broke her of this b}^ feed- 
ing just before starting out for a hunt. Some 
claim that their ferrets will drive out mink or 
skunk but so far I never have been successful in 
this although I never tried much. If you come 
to a hole in which there are a great many roots 
it is safest to let the ferret go in loose rather 
than harnessed or string attached, for string or 
harness is apt to get caught." 



CHAPTER XIV. 

LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 

CHE following letters are from those who, as 
a rule, have raised small numbers only. 
Several points are brought out by these 
not mentioned elsewhere that are of espe- 
cial interest. It will also be learned from these 
writers that ferrets are successfully raised in 
Canada, Iowa, Nebraska, West Virginia, Penn- 
sylvania, Illinois, and New York. While Ohio is 
the center of the industry there are in Illinois, 
Minnesota, Iowa, New York and probably other 
states those who raise hundreds, possibly thou- 
sands, each year. 



My father is a great ferret breeder and I 
will try to tell about some of his ways. I came 
from England to this country in February, 1910, 
and always worked on a farm. My father has 
kept ferrets since he was 18 years old and he is 
53 now, and he still keeps them. Perhaps this 
country will be a little different for ferrets from 
England. 

The ferret will come in heat in March and if 
they are not mated with a male they will die. 

135 



136 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

They have from two to nine in a litter and I 
never knew of one to breed twice in a year. 

The best tiling to feed them is new milk and 
dog cakes and flesh of all kinds bnt they like 
birds tlie best. But when they have yonng ones, 
never give them any flesh until the young are a 
month old, as the blood will get on them and that 
will entice the old one to eat them. 

I never knew of anyone using fine gravel. The 
best thing to be used in their pens is clean saw- 
dust for they must be kept clean. Never give 
them anything with salt on, as salt will kill them. 
G. W. Fradley, Canada. 



Ferrets usually breed in April but have been 
known to run until Ma}' or June. The}- have 
from three to eleven at a litter but I have had 
them have as high as fifteen. They carry their 
young 42 days. Always keep the male away from 
the female as they will kill the young. 

I feed my" ferrets bread and milk tw^ice a day 
and a little fresh meat once a week. Do not feed 
them very much meat as it makes them mean and 
hard to handle. 

Ferrets are born blind and remain so for 
about five weeks. Fix the nest for the female 
about a week before she has her young and do 
not bother her until the young are about two 



LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 137 

weeks old. The ferrets hide their young until 
about that time. If the young get to squealing 
and crawling about at this time, soak a small 
piece of bread in warm milk and place it in the 
nest, as they are hungry. They will soon find it 
and suck all the milk out. 

I have been a breeder of ferrets for twelve 
years and h^A^e had only one ferret that raised 
more than one litter a year. This one had a lit- 
ter in June and another in August. The first 
litter contained nine and the next one eleven, and 
she raised nineteen out of the twenty. 

Always keep ferrets in a dry place with three 
or four inches of dirt in their pen for them to dig 
in. If you don't they will get a disease known as 
the foot-rot and that soon kills them. 

C. E. Wynn, 
Webster Co., Iowa. 



I have had ferrets for five years and they are 
very useful in catching rats or rabbits, if they 
are properly handled. 

Ferrets should, by all means, have a warm, 
dry place to sleep and a cool place in summer, 
for they will get overheated sometimes if kept in 
a close place. I lost a fine female in this way 
last summer. Let me speak again about the 
necessity of cleanness in raising ferrets. If they 



138 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

are kept in a damp or dirty place, they will get 
the foot-rot. They are easily cured by applying 
kerosene and turpentine to the sore parts twice 
a day, for three or four days. 

Ferrets have from five to seven at a litter and 
they have been known to have fifteen. I had one 
last summer that had thirteen, but this is too 
many for a ferret to raise. 

Their breeding season is from the last of 
March to the first of October. As soon as the 
period of oestrum comes upon the female, place 
her in the hutch with the male and leave her 
there two days; then separate them again and 
give the female plenty of good, rich food to eat, 
such as milk and mush oatmeal, cooked potatoes, 
birds, foAvl or raw animal food of any kind. 
Meat may be given two or three times a week, but 
always keep your ferrets a little hungry. 

When handling ferrets keep them tame. 
Never make a quick jerk at them or hit them in 
any way. You should use a string and harness 
for them when driving out rabbits. 

Clifford Martin, 
Webster Co., Nebr. 



I will give my experience with ferrets as I 
have raised them for fifteen years. The cement 
floors are all right in the summer season, but do 



LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 



139 



not keep them on concrete floors in the winter 
for they are a cold natnred animal and should 
not be on anything that draws frost or dampness. 
For a house in the winter take four posts, drive 
them in the ground, letting them be about 18 
inches high. Now take sleepers and make them 
one foot from the ground, put the floor on them 
and make the house so as to rest on the floor but 





WINTER FERRET HOUSE. 



make it so as to pass between the post. Now 
take a pair of hinges and fasten to the floor, then 
set the house on the floor and nail the hinges to 
the house so it will set in the proper place. Cut 
your door in the end. 

A house of this kind you can lay over and 
scrub. It is the best way I have found yet. In 
the summer time they want a cool, light place 
with sand on the floor as they will mix the sand 



140 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

and keep tilings clean themselves. The summer 
house should be made of strips about one inch 
apart. Feed them meat, such as rabbits, birds, 
sweet milk with bread in it. When they have 
young ones don't finger them or feed them while 
they are nursing. If you do the mother will eat 
the bunch and look for more, and when one of 
them gets sick, don't doctor it for it is going to 
leave you sure without cure and to cure it is out 
of the question. P. H. Doss^ West Virginia. 



I began raising a good many years ago real- 
izing that many more ferrets could be used to 
advantage in flour mills, elevators, freight and 
express offices, as well as by the land owner or 
farmer. This was evident to me from the grain 
destroyed by rats gnawing holes in bins and 
sacks containing grain as well as playing havoc 
in general in freight, express office or store. 

Again tlie use of ferrets has been most too 
general in some localities — near towns and cities 
for instance— 'where scores of ferrets are used 
by rabbit hunters, not only in season, but too 
often at all times. It is pretty hard to catch' the 
ferreter as the animal can be so easily concealed. 
Ferrets are useful, in their place, but can be 
made very destructive on protected game which 
it seems some ferret owners and users stoop to. 



LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 141 

Land owners and tenants are generally given 
permission to use ferrets where rabbits are doing 
an injury and with this leeway many use ferrets, 
at times, where they have no lawful right to do 
so. I have always found ready sale for all raised, 
selling mostly in this state — Pennsylvania — for 
rabbit and rat purposes. Some have asked for 
mink and skunk driving ferrets but having never 
tried or experimented with ferrets on those ani- 
mals I do not know whether they would do the 
work or not. 

Some of the diseases of the ferret are: foot 
rot, which is cured by dipping the feet in kero- 
sene ; scurvy is the same as foot rot, only all over 
the body and can be treated similar to the feet. 
Young ferrets have what is called sweating, on 
account of the mother ferret covering the young 
too deep with straw. Most of the straw should 
be taken out of the box, leaving only a little. 
Lump jaw is a disease like a boil and should be 
lanced. Distemper is a hard< matter to cure and 
all of them should be separated at once and taken 
out, but better kill all that are sick than to let it 
run. They can be cured by using skunk oil and 
sulphur, by pouring it down them and plenty of 
it. If given good care, they are not hard to raise. 
A Northern Pennsylvania Raiser. 



142 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

In reply to your inquiry about ferrets would 
say that 1 have raised them for about twenty 
years and do not know it all yet. Will try and 
answer some of the questions asked. Have raised 
12 in one litter and have had some with as few 
as 2. I consider 6 or 7 a good fair average. 
Ferrets have been known to live ten or twelve 
years but more of them die before four or five 
have been reached. I always use young ones for 
breeders. 

A disease commonl}' known as foot rot is the 
worst thing I have had to contend with, but have 
learned how to avoid it, namely, keeping ferrets 
feet healthy by applying common kerosene occa- 
sionally and keeping pens clean. 

Bert R. Northrop, 
Chenango Co., New York. 



One must keep the ferret house very sanitary 
(clean), otherwise it will soon be stricken with 
some sickness, then it is almost useless to try to 
save the little animals. Ninety per cent of fer- 
rets die when once sick. 

When the female is going to have young, the 
male should be kept some distance from her. If 
left together they may devour the young as is 
sometimes the case. 



LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 143 

Old rabbit bunting ferrets sbould bave tbeir 
teetb clipped off occasionally. Tbis will often 
save many bours trying to get your ferret out of 
a bole, wbere it bas caugbt a rabbit. In bunting 
skunk and sucb animals, tbe longer tbeir teetb, 
tbe better. 

If a person wants fast bunting ferrets tbey 
sbould not play witb tbem wben starting on a 
bunt. Of course I must say tbat tbere are wortb- 
less ferrets, just tbe same as tbere are good for 
notbing dogs. Ferrets must bave a variety of 
food, tbis, too, must be strictly fresb. Ricb milk, 
not pure cream, witb bread crumbed in it is good. 
Meat occasionally, sucb as tbe lieart, lungs, fresb 
blood and a piece of tbe liver tbat is free from 
bile, are all good for ferrets. 

John C. Siburt, 
Marsball Co., West Virginia. 



Tbe first ferret I ever owned was a brown 
female, medium size, gentle and a fine bunter. 
Wben spring came I decided I would try and 
raise some 3^oung ferrets from ber. I did not 
knoAV any more about it tban a bog knows about 
religion, but wben I tbougbt tbe riglit time bad 
come I got a large broAvn male ferret from a 
neigbbor and put bim in witb tbe female. I took 
good care of tbe female, kept ber clean, fed ber 



144 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

well and in forty-two days she had eleven fine 
young ferrets. 

The female was tame and I would handle the 
young all I wanted to, which was every chance 
I had. When the young were grown I had as 
nice a bunch as I ever saw, all tame and gentle 
as kittens. I would play with them, throwing 
them from hand to hand, put my fingers in their 
mouth, but I never had one offer to bite me. I 
never had to put on a heavy mitten or glove, or 
use a long stick with a hook on one end, to handle 
my ferrets with, as I have seen some ferret breed- 
ers do, who never handle the young until they 
are large, when it is a very hard matter to tame 
them. 

Some people have ferrets die when they are 
about three or four weeks old. I believe that 
they die because they do not get enough to eat 
from the mother. When they are hungry they 
will crawl around in the nest and cry something 
like a young mink or rats. When mine began to 
act hungry I got a shallow dish and filled it with 
sweet milk and soaked some bread in the milk. 
I then took all the young ferrets out of the nest 
and put the little ferrets' mouths right down in 
the milk for an instant. It won't be long before 
they will drink alone. A little time and patience 
will save a good many that otherwise would die. 



LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 145 

I feed my ferrets bread and milk twice a day 
and a sparrow or some other kind of meat once 
a week when I have it. I also feed them corn, 
w^hen it is in the milk or good roasting ear time, 
watermelon rinds and pumpkins, when they are 
ripe. I feed the pumpkin by making a hole in 
them near the bottom, large enough for a ferret 
to go through, and put it in the pen. The ferrets 
will eat until there is nothing but the shell or 
outside rind left. 

Rats will not stay on a place where ferrets 
are raised. Before I kept ferrets our farm was 
overrun with them, but after I had ferrets six 
months we never had any trouble with them and 
none could be found. We never used tlie ferrets 
to hunt them with but they left, we think, be- 
cause they disliked ferrets. Ferrets and rats are 
natural enemies. 

The best pen I have ever had for a female and 
young I will illustrate and describe : The pen is 
6 feet long, 3 feet wide, 2 feet high. First dig 
a trench the size of the pen, one foot deep, and 
line this with boards on bottom, sides and ends, 
using boards 14 inches wide for the sides and 
ends. Be sure and have the boards fit close 
together so a ferret cannot get through. Now get 
four scantling 2x4 for corner posts, long enough 
to reach from bottom of the trench to two feet 

10 



146 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



above the level ground. Nail the four posts ( one 
in each coner) firmly in place. Next join the 
four posts together by nailing strips 1 x 4 to the 
posts at the top, all around the pen. You now 
have the frame. Now shovel the dirt you re- 
moved to make the trench, back in the now 
board-lined trench, until it is level with the side 




PEN FOR FEMALE AND YOUNG. 



boards. Now get some fine meshed wire, not 
larger than 1-inch mesh (f-inch is good), two 
feet wide and staple it firmly and tightly all 
around the frame and over top, leaving a space 
on top for a door to feed, etc. ; also make a hole 
4x1 inclies at the end near the bottom of the 
pen, through the wire, for the ferrets to go 



LETTERS FROM RAISERS. 147 

through, to the hutch, making the hole in the 
hutch the same size as the hole in the pen. Put 
the hutch up close to the pen so the holes in the 
hutch and pen are square together so the ferrets 
can pass through the holes from the pen to the 
hutch. Ferrets can dig in the dirt floor to boards 
but they cannot get through. It will never be wet 
or damp if the dirt in the pen is kept a little 
higher than the dirt outside, and the ferrets will 
also be healthier than those raised on board or 
cement floors. The pen is stationary and cannot 
be moved, but if built in the right place, prefer- 
ably under some shade trees, they will last a long 
time if built right. I keep my ferrets in them 
winter and summer, but they should have lots of 
bedding in the winter. 

For hutches I use common dr}' goods boxes 
made of 1-inch boards about 2 feet wide, 4 feet 
long, IJ feet high. I put on a good cover or roof 
and a door in the back end about 10 x 10 inches 
to clean, etc. 

Some hunters have trouble with their ferrets 
not coming out of the hole and use harness or 
strings on them. I have found a way to get fer- 
rets out: Get some shells for your shotgun, 
loaded with black powder, remove the shot from 
the shells and carry a feAV in your hunting coat 
pocket. When your ferret decides to stay in the 



148 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

hole and won't come out, just put one of these 
shells in your gun, put the barrel in the hole as 
far as you can and fire. Your ferret will soon 
be out. (This method is not very safe and unless 
large den or -small load of powder is apt to burst 
gun barrel. Author.) 

Arthur N. Anderson, 
Boone County, Illinois. 



CHAPTER XV 

THE FERRET IN BELGIUM, EUROPE. 

TWILL tell you liow the common rabbit is 
hunted with a ferret in Belgium, Europe. 
It was in the year of 1911, in the month of 
January, in the village called Aywaille, 
close to Liege, a city you will have no trouble in 
finding on the map. The country around this 
part is very rough and hilly and pretty well cov- 
ered with young timber. In this country they 
cut down the timber every three years and use 
it in the baking ovens. On this fine morning I 
loaded m3^self down witli thirty pouches, my fer- 
ret, a light colored one, large and gentle as a 
kitten, which I placed in a box a little larger 
than a cigar box. I carried it under my arm, 
under my cape and no one could tell that I had 
anything. I also placed hay in the box for a nest. 
A half mile took me to a friend who was 
going with me. We got started from his place at 
4 a. m. There was about ten inches of snow that 
had fallen the night before. Two miles took us 
to the first rabbit den, which consisted of four 
holes. Here I had better explain about the rab- 
bits' holes in this country. They are not as lazy 

149 



150 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

as our own rabbits, who rarely ever dig a hole 
of their own but use other animals holes or 
hollows in trees. But in Belgium it is different. 
They dig their own holes which are from three 
feet to 100 yards long. All of the holes connect 
together in the ground. Sometimes there are 
only two holes and again there are as many as a 
hundred holes, all of which are connected. A 
den of one hundred holes probably would cover 
an area of one-half acre and underground it 
would be pretty well tunneled. 

We took our four pouches and spread them 
over the holes and slipped the ferret in one of the 
holes, but he was barely in when two rabbits shot 
out of the same hole. The first one was caught 
but the second one got away, as we had no chance 
to reset the pouch after the first one was caught. 
I set another pouch over the hole again while 
pard took out the rabbit, which took but a few 
seconds. Then the ferret came out. I set the 
box down and he crawled into it, then we gath- 
ered up our pouches and set off. 

We traveled about forty rods when we came 
to a hedge where we found a den of six holes, all 
in the side of the bank among the hedge, a very 
diflficult place to set the pouches. Finally we got 
them set and placed the ferret in one of the holes. 
We heard them making an awful fuss, then out 



THE FERRET IN BELGIUM, EUROPE. 151 

shot a rabbit through a hole we had not found. 
We quickly set a pouch over the hole and again 
waited, for we could hear the noise. We did not 
wait long when a rabbit landed in a pouch, and 
while pard took him out, out shot another rabbit 
through a hole that we had not seen. We could 
not get at the hole to set a pouch so we had to let 
it go. We waited a little while longer and the 




AN EASTERN WHITE FERRET. 

ferret came out and crawled into his box and we 
started off again. 

We went a mile this time before we located 
another of 22 holes. We found blood in several 
places, human tracks, and decided that there had 
been hunters there with ferrets before us, so ^e 
took the opposite direction so we would not be 
^^stung" again. This time we came to a den of 



152 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

42 holes, rabbit tracks by the wholesale and no 
human tracks to be seen. We fairly went wild 
at the sight and whooped and hallooed. After ten 
minutes' prancing around we began to set 
pouches. We got the thirty pouches set that we 
had and then began filling up the other holes 
with rocks, chunks of wood, in fact anything 
that would keep the rabbits from coming out of 
the holes. The den covered an area of 100 yards 
long by 30 yards wide, among rocks and timber, 
some of the holes being very difficult to find. 

Everything ready, we placed the ferret in one 
of the holes but in a second he stuck his nose out 
of another, then back he went at lightning speed. 
We waited for at least ten minutes, then we 
heard a slight noise, then we saw the ferret at 
one of the holes. He nosed around a few minutes 
then went back in the same hole. He was hardly 
out of sight when out came a rabbit and landed 
in a pouch. Then the work began, to take out 
the rabbits and replace the pouches. In a half 
hour we had six more, then we waited another 
half hour and got no more. Then we packed up 
our pouches, rabbits and ferret. As long as the 
ferret is willing to stay in a hole you may expect 
another rabbit, but when the ferret does not go 
back in the hole of its own accord, you may rest 
assured that there are no more rabbits in the 



EUROPE. 153 

holes and you might as well pack your traps, for 
that will be all that you will get. 

We traveled through a timber and found a 
den of only two holes. No tracks could be seen, 
but on close examination we found that the snow 
around one of the holes was melting, so we con- 
cluded that they might contain something. We 
hardly thought that it could be a rabbit and hesi- 
tated to put the ferret in. We feared that there 
was a mink in the hole, but as it was a short one 
we concluded that we could help the ferret out 
of the scrap should it happen to be one. I placed 
the ferret at one of the holes while pard held his 
hands over the other one. I had barely let loose 
of the ferret when out shot a rabbit, pard nearly 
letting it get away. It was so sudden that he 
was not ready for such a lively performance. By 
this time we had twelve rabbits, so we loaded up 
and made a bee line for home. We felt that we 
could eat a half dozen of them as soon as we got 
them cooked. We saw a couple of other places 
where ferrets had been, so paced right on, arriv- 
ing home at 3 p. m. 

Jules Burton. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

FERRET RAISING IN A SMALL WAY. 

CHERE is no better way to explain how to 
handle a few ferrets than to give the 
methods as followed by those who keep a 
few only. While there may be better ways 
than the following yet it explains briefly much 
of practical valne. This raiser is located in Oce- 
ola County, Michigan, which is more than half 
way up the state being in latitude 44 degrees, 
showing that they do well even that far to the 
north : 

*'In October, some years ago, I bought a pair 
of ferrets, paid |3.50 for them. They were broTvn 
and the male was larger than the female. 

When I first got them they were wild as they 
never had been handled any and they would bite 
if you touched them, so the first thing I did was 
to go to a store and buy a pair of leather gloves 
to handle them with. The gloves cost 50 cents, 
making a total of |4.00 for the ferrets. 

I got them home and then I had to make a 
box to keep them in, as I didn't have one ready. 
While I was making the box the ferrets slept 
peacefully in a barrel. For the benefit of those 

154 



FERRET RAISING IN A SMALL WAY. 155 

who have had no experience with ferrets, I will 
tell yon how I made the box and I might say now 
that it has given good satisfaction. 

First I got a box from the grocery store 
about 32 inches long, 20 inches wide and 14 
inches high. I nailed a top on it and made a 
door for feed and such like in the top about 7 by 
10 inches. Then I put a door in one end about 
15 by 8 inches. This door I use wiien cleaning 
out the box. For light, I tore off a board from 
the side and then nailed two thicknesses of com- 
mon screen over it. This left space for light 4 
inches wide and extending the whole length of 
the box, giving plenty of light and ventilation. 
To take up the moisture I put in about 1^ inches 
of dry sawdust ( I like this better than dirt ) and 
about one inch of wheat straw on top of the saw- 
dust. This brings the floor up to a level with the 
bottom of the screen. 

In one end of the box I put a handful of 
wheat straw for a nest. This makes a nice cool 
place for them in summer, but in the winter I 
nail a board across about 10 inches from the end 
where the nest is, and then I nail another board 
from the end of the box to the one nailed across 
and fill it up with wheat straw. This makes a 
nice warm nest for them. You should leave a 



156 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

hole at the bottom of the cross board for them 
to go in. 

I clean the box out once a week and put in 
fresh straAV and sawdust. I also take out the 
droppings about once between the times of clean- 
ing the box, and put fresh straw in the place 
where I cleaned. I also put in fresh straw for 
the bedding every two weeks. This keeps the box 
from getting damp and sour and the ferrets are 
not bothered with foot rot and weak eyes. 

For a dish to feed them out of, I use a tin 
basin about IJ inches high. I give them bread 
and milk morning and night and fresh meat 
twice a week. Never feed them anything salty^ 
as salt will kill them. I don't think tainted meat 
is good for them^I always feed mine fresh. I 
scour out the dish in Avhicli I feed them milk 
every two weeks. It may not seem necessary to 
some of you to clean the box so often, but T like 
to keep it clean and as I have the straw and the 
time, I do it. 

I kept my ferrets in this box all winter, 
and up until about ]\Iay 10th, when I made an- 
other box to put the female in, as I was expecting 
young ones. I made this box ditferent from the 
'first, it being about 2 J feet high and 3 feet 
square. I put a screen in front and a lath cover 
on top. For her nest I got a box about 14 inches 



FERRET RAISING IN A SMALL WAY. 



157 




158 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

high and packed this full of straw. Then I made 
a hole near the bottom with my hand. 

To tell when to separate the female, she be- 
gins to shed about two weeks before she has her 
young. 

One morning about two weeks after I put her 
in this box, or to be more exact on May 27th, I 
found four young ones in the nest. They were 
funny looking things, with their eyes shut and 
no hair to speak of; I might say they resembled 
rats, except in size, for they are longer and more 
slim than rats. These ferrets are sixteen days 
old now (June 13th) and they are dandies. They 
haven't got their eyes open yet — they don't open 
until they are six weeks old. The mother is as 
gentle as she was before she had her young." 

Methods explained in handling the large 
ranch, colony or ferret establishment at breeding 
time can be followed by the small raiser to a 
great extent. (See chapter on Breeding). Some 
of the things for those who have few as well as 
those raising many to remember are: After 
mating the female goes 42 days before young are 
born; thirty days or thereabout after mating 
make the female a nest in a box filled with wheat 
straw; separate the breeding females, providing 
a box and pen or hutch for each. 



FERRET RAISING IN A SMALL WAY. 159 

The female comes in heat from about the 
middle of March to the last of April, depending 
upon the season as well as how she has been kept 
and handled. Suppose the date of mating is 
April 25 the young will be born 42 days later, or 
June 6. 

If a second litter is desired the young can be 
weaned a few days after they open their eyes and 
have begun eating milk from the pan with the 
mother. The female is now taken from her 
3'Oung and placed in a pen until she comes into 
heat again which will be about two weeks. This 
period can be easily told as the conditions are 
much the same as the dog family, that is, the part 
swells, remaining in that condition for a week or 
longer. The male should not be put with the 
female until the swelling is quite pronounced, 
which will not be for several days after it begins. 
Second litters will be smaller than the first, that 
is, instead of five to ten, the number will more 
than likely range from three to five. The second 
litter will be grown in time' for last of December 
and January rabbit hunting. 

Prices at which ferrets will sell during the 
season is usually known by August. Values are 
governed by the anticipated supply and demand. 
Unless overstocked it will generally pay to keep 
until late in August or September before selling 



160 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



as prices are apt to be higher as the rabbit hunt- 
ing season draws nearer. On the other hand 
there is always danger of disease and death, and 
again the purchaser who buys early has longer to 
get his ferret or ferrets accustomed to his meth- 
ods of handling before the hunting season is on. 
Prices, however, usually show advance in Sep- 
tember over August, and October values are 
higher than September. A party in central New 
York, who began in a small way, but having since 
built up quite a business, priced his ferrets as 
follows : 





July 


Aug. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


Dec. 


Single, female 




$3 00 
2 50 
5 00 


$3 50 
3 00 
6 00 


$4 00 

3 50 

■7 00 






Single, male 








Pair 




















From figures given it will be seen that this 
raiser advanced values 50 cents for September 
over August with same advance for October sales 
over September. November and December prices 
were left blank for various reasons. One being 
that stock might be all sold ; another that supply 
might be short and prices higher. July sales 
would generally mean special prices as such 
would be old stock. Further information as to 
prices will be found in next chapter. 



CnAPTER XVII. 

FERRET RAISING AS A BUSINESS. 

CHE raising of ferrets as a business is one 
that apparently has not yet been overdone, 
judging from letters written by ferret rais- 
ers who advertise in the hunting and trap- 
ping publications. Some of these report their 
stock gone from one or two insertions of their 
advertisement. One dealer said that he had hun- 
dreds of ferrets in the fall but that he disposed 
of them all before Christmas. The demand seems 
always greater than the supply. This is usually 
more noticeable in the months of January and 
February. 

Among those who use ferrets are farmers, 
mill men, merchants, etc., on rats, and boys and 
hunteis* to chase rabbits from dens. A good 
many ferrets are lost each season, by rabbit and 
other hunters, few if any of which live until 
spring. A demand is also springing up for fer- 
rets to be used in locating mink and other fur- 
bearers in their dens. While they don't always 
drive from den yet if a skunk it generally "raises 
a stink." They are also sold to ranchers and 
others, mostly west of the Mississippi river, to be 
n 161 



162 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

used on ground squirrels, gophers and prairie 
dogs as well as for rats and rabbits. 

A party who has followed the business for a 
good many years says : ^'Tlie demand for ferrets, 
at the present time (1914) is so great that deal- 
ers all over the country turn away orders that 
they cannot fill. Ferret raising is a good pay- 
ing business and they can be sold every day in 
large or small lots. Most of the leading sporting 
magazines contain advertisements wanting to 
buy or sell in large or small lots. In the state of 
Ohio I should estimate that there was more than 
100,000 ferrets raised and sold and by December 
it was a hard matter to buy one dozen from any 
raiser. They are sold to smaller dealers all over 
the United States who sell singly or in pairs at 
good prices. I know of different parties who 
started with one pair of ferrets and today they 
raise every year thousands and sell them all.'' 

During my many years experience in the pub- 
lishing business there has not been a season but 
that numerous inquiries have been received from 
those wanting to buy one or more ferrets. At 
first I referred them to some advertiser but they 
"came back at me" with the information that 
they had written all the advertisers in a certain 
magazine, all replying that they were sold out. 



FERRET RAISING AS A BUSINESS. 163 

Under these conditions it appears that the 
ferret raiser or breeder will have but little 
trouble to dispose of his stock. In this connec- 
tion I might further mention that during the 
time I published hunters and trappers period- 
icals, on more than one occasion, subscribers 
wrote that they were ordering a ferret or ferrets 
from such and such a raiser, but could get no 
reply. In several instances I wrote the raiser 
asking if he had received an order from so and 
so. A reply promptly came saying that his stock 
of ferrets was all gone but that he was trying to 
buy from another dealer to fill the order. This 
tends to show, as well as personal visits to sev- 
eral ferret ranches, that up-to-date business 
methods are not always adhered to by ferret rais- 
ers and sellers, yet as more enter the business 
those who treat customers shabbily will lose 
out. 

The foregoing is evidence that the ferret 
raiser who knows the "ins" and "outs" of the 
business has no difficulty in disposing of what- 
ever stock he cares to sell. A breeder and raiser 
located near the Twin Cities — Minneapolis and 
St. Paul — says that he can sell ferrets in the fall 
as fast as he has them to offer for |3.00 to |5.00 
each. 



164 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Although the heaviest demand and most sales 
are made during the months of October and No- 
vember, prices in a general way, at least, are 
known by August. This is determined by num- 
ber raised as each ranch or colony ^'keeps tab'^ 
to a certain extent on the other fellow by corre- 
spondence and otherwise to learn number raised, 
and sizing up demand from various parts of the 
country. The party who raises large numbers 
generally begins selling in August to smaller 
dealers, bird stores and other sources at about 
|2.00 each or |24.00 a dozen and advances values 
about 50 cents a head per month. Thus if the 
price is |2.00 a head in August it will be |2.50 in 
September, ?3.()0 in October, |3.50 in November, 
1 1.00 in December. Of course conditions govern 
tlie price to some extent and they will vary from 
figures given, yet they give a fair illustration of 
values for years immediately prior to 1915. 

The advance from August is to pay for the 
trouble and expense of feeding. Ferrets born 
last of April and early in May are full grown by 
August as they attain their growth in about 90 
days when properly cared for. It is a good idea 
for a prospective user to buy early so as to get 
his ferret or ferrets somewhat familiar with him. 

Weight of a large male ferret is seldom as 
much as two pounds. Females are smaller by 



FERRET RAISING AS A BUSINESS. 165 

one-fourth to a third than males. The shipping 
weight of a dozen, generally both males and fe- 
males, including weight of box is around 25 
pounds. A single ferret, including box, 3 to 4 
pounds; pair 5 to 6. Shipping weight of ferrets 
varies, not so much perhaps in actual weight of 
the animals raised by the different parties, as in 
the size and thickness of shipping crates. One 
large breeder and shipper uses the following 
dimensions for his crates or shipping boxes : 

Single fer- 
ret, 12 X 6 x 
5J inch es, 
w eight 4 
pounds. 

Pair fer- 
rets, 12xlOx 
5^ i n c h es, 
w eight 6 
pounds. 
Dozen fer- 
rets, 32x16x5^ inches, weight 24 pounds. 

These crates were made out of J-incli lumber 
and weights given are read}^ for shipment. The 
crate for dozen lots have a partition through 
center and six are put in each side. Another 
dealer gives the following weights : One ferret 
3 pounds; two ferrets 5 pounds; six ferrets 15 




SHIPPING CRATES. 



166 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

pounds; 12 ferrets 25 pounds. This party evi- 
dently uses lighter material for shipping one or 
two than he does for one-half or dozen lots. 

When shipping it is advisable to keep old 
ones by themselves. Females will fight young 
males and the animals may reach their destina- 
tion considerably chopped or bitten up. It is 
best to keep young by themselves when shipping. 

There is heavy expense in connection with 
keeping say 500 females and 100 males through 
the winter, spring and summer. After the young 
become any size, say by June, it will require the 
milk from something like 40 cows to supply them. 
This is assuming that each of the 500 females 
will have an average of six young. It will also 
take 300 or 400 bushels of wheat during the year 
to feed this large number and the young until 
sold. Some feed little or no meat while others 
buy all the old horses they can or even those 
that have died with any disease, other than blood 
poison or contagious ones. 

Northern Ohio is the center of the ferret rais- 
ing industry. The business was first extensively 
carried on near New London, Ohio and while the 
first raiser is no longer engaged in the industry 
to any great extent others in the same locality 
are. In several places in Ohio the business is 
now being pushed as well as having spread not 



FERRET RAISING AS A BUSINESS. 167 

only to adjoining states but westward beyond 
the Mississippi river. There is room for more, 
especially in and near ^^ratty places''. 

The ferret industry is one of much more im- 
portance than generally supposed from the fact 
that probably fifty times as many of the animals 
are in use as those not familiar with their uses 
realize. In thousands of buildings ferrets are 
doing much good in destroying and keeping away 
rats, the great pest not only in dwellings, but 
mills, elevators, granaries, barns, etc. 

In states where rabbit hunting with ferrets is 
lawful, many are used, as rabbits driven out and 
caught are not shot up or damaged as is often 
the case when killed by other methods. The fer- 
ret user, who hunts for market, puts his animal 
in the den and catches the rabbit in his hands, 
net or a sack, placed over the mouth of the den, 
as it comes out. 

So far ferrets have mostly been used for rats 
and rabbits. During recent years a few have 
been used for fur hunting, principally on mink 
and skunk. There is also more or less call, prin- 
cipally from west of the Mississippi river, for 
an animal, or other means, of destroying ground 
squirrels, gophers, prairie dogs and other small 
animal pests. Where large, old and several fer- 
rets are used they are of considerable value for 



168 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

such purposes. The ferret is a scrappy fellow 
and many much larger animals will run from it 
rather than fight. It may be that the smell or 
odor of a ferret strikes terror to them — it does 
to rats. 

Some objection is made to those breeding, 
handling and selling ferrets on the ground that 
they are often unlawfully used. No doubt such 
is the case. No one surely is so narrow 
minded as to say that dogs should not be raised 
or sold because some use them during closed 
season. Neither would they say that fishing 
tackle or gun manufacturers should close their 
plants because some that bought are using them 
unlawfully. Ferrets are used unlawfully to 
some extent, but indications are that the law is 
generally as well observed by the user of ferret 
as those who hunt with dog and gun or gun 
alone. 

The native American animal that most re- 
sembles a ferret is the weasel which animal is 
also bold and bloodthirsty. The weasel is dif- 
ferent from the ferret in that it can not, or at 
least is hard to manage and train to hunt game. 
Ferret raisers say that the weasel and ferret 
will not cross. Even should later experiments 
prove successful it is doubtful whether such a 
"breed'' would be an improvement or otherwise. 



FERRET RAISING AS A BUSINESS. 169 

For hunting purposes probably not. Perhaps a 
cross of this kind would mean a better fur pelt, 
but at the same time a somewhat smaller body 
enabling it to enter smaller dens thus being able 
more easily to "ferret out" the smaller rat dens. 

From the foregoing it will be seen that there 
are various uses and demands for ferrets. Chap- 
ter XIX — Ferrets as Fur Bearers — will also 
be of interest to raisers and prospective raisers. 
So far very few ferret skins have been sold in 
America, but in Europe where the animal is 
known as fitch a good many thousand skins are 
sold each year at prices ranging from about 15 
to T5 cents. The fur value, as yet, is low but 
should some fatal disease appear during the 
winter season it would pay to skin and save the 
pelts. 

The business of raising ferrets is one of more 
or less risk for the animals are susceptible to dis- 
ease, can not stand severe cold and are short 
lived. On the other hand there has always been 
a cash market for all raised, they produce good 
sized litters, breed twice a year if rightly han- 
dled, and food on which they thrive is not 
expensive. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

HOW TO SELL FERRETS. 

no doubt one of the best, quickest and 
cheapest methods of selling is by plac- 
ing advertisements in the classified col- 
umns of the hunting and trapping pub- 
lications. Some of these carry considerable dog, 
gun, ferret and other allied business and some- 
times have a Ferret heading in the classified 
department. If so there is where your notice of 
sale should be placed to bring best results. 

The cost of advertising, in the classified col- 
umns, varies about one-half cent a word each 
insertion, in your local or county paper ; in large 
dailies about one to two cents a word; in hunt- 
ing and trapping magazines (which will be your 
best mediums) from two to five cents a word. 
Don't let this higher price keep you out for they 
will undoubtedly sell so many more for you that 
they will prove the cheapest although first cost 
was higher. To further illustrate : Suppose you 
use 20 words three times in a local paper at a 
cost of one cent a w^ord each insertion, or 60 
cents for the three times. A local or county 
paper circulates mainly in the county where 

170 



HOW TO SELL FERRETS. 171 

published and if you sell six ferrets the adver- 
tisement has done all you could expect. A 20 
word advertisement in say Hunter-Trader-Trap- 
pevy Columbus, Ohio, would cost fl.OO a month 
or |3.00 for three insertions, or five times as 
much as the local paper. To. equalize cost you 
must sell thirty from the latter. 

It may come as a surprise to you, but true 
nevertheless, that more than one hundred have 
been sold from |3.00 worth of space in the 
Hunter-Trader-Trapper. Why? Because that 
monthly magazine reaches and is closely read 
largely by just the class of people that the ferret 
seller wants to reach — hunters, trappers, sports- 
men, farmers, elevator and mill men, ranchers, 
etc. 

Other magazines along somewhat similar 
lines are: National Sportsman^ Boston, Mass.; 
Outdoor Life, Denver, Colo. ; Sports Afield^ Chi- 
cago, 111.; Rod and Gun, Woodstock, Ontario, 
Canada. These should all prove good mediums 
to use. Leading national farm papers such as 
Farm JournaL Philadelphia, Pa.; Successful 
Farming, Des Moines, Iowa; Farm and Home, 
Springfield, Mass.; Farm and Fireside, Spring- 
field, Ohio can all be used to advantage where 
the raiser has large numbers to dispose of. These 
papers and magazines, owing to large circula- 



172 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

tion, close their forms from three to six weeks 
in advance of publication and mailing. Those 
you are anticipating using it is advisable to send 
for sample copy and advertising rates. These 
w ill be mailed you promptly giving all informa- 
tion as to rates, closing dates, etc., that is de- 
sired. If you wish to make sales in your own 
and adjacent states mainly I would advise your 
using the leading state weekly newspaper or 
leading weekly farm paper of your state. Their 
rates will vary from about 25 to 75 cents a line. 
Usually they do not accept display advertise- 
ments of less than three lines. Of course those 
containing a classified department will usually 
accept a notice of as few as fifteen words. 
Poultry papers are also pretty good mediums. 

Any publication that you are thinking of 
using it is advisable to write asking for sample 
copy and advertising rates. These will be sent 
you at once. Look them over and if in the Ferret 
selling season they are apt to be running other 
ferret advertisements. Don't make the mistake 
of trying to get into publications having no fer- 
ret advertisements thinking that such will be the 
best ones. As a rule experienced ferret raisers 
and sellers have tried all of them and are now 
using the best ones. Remember that some publi- 
cations do not reach a class of people that are 



HOW TO SELL FERRETS. 



173 




174 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

interested in ferrets and it would be a waste of 
money to go into such. Again some of the very 
best mediums for you may contain no ferret ad- 
vertising during the off ferret selling season. 

My years of exj^erience in the publishing bus- 
iness and close observation of the methods of the 
most successful advertisers, of not only ferrets 
but other lines of advertising as well, has proven 
to me that it is best to begin the advertising sev- 
eral weeks in advance of the active or best sell- 
ing season. Why? Because this gives time for 
prospective purchasers to write for prices, etc. 
Be prompt in answering all inquiries for this is 
one of the great secrets in being successful in 
aiiy line. 

Some ferret sellers wonder why they seldom, 
if ever, get repeat orders. Nine times out of ten 
the reason can be traced to their treatment of 
customers. Orders are not filled promptly some- 
times, being held up for days or even a week. I 
have known certain raisers and dealers, who did 
not have ferrets on hand when the order was 
received, holding same for a week or two, bm ing 
elsewhere to fill it. Business is business and any 
ferret raiser, handler, seller and advertiser who 
offers stock for sale has no right to hold up an 
order for an unreasonable time. Prompt ship- 
ments mean within 24 hours after received. 



HOW TO SELL FERRETS. 175 

Some make it a rule to get every order out day 
received or write customer why shipment Yv^as 
delayed a day. Of course the buyer should take 
into consideration time in the week that the or- 
der is received. It is not advisable to start fer- 
rets hundreds of miles on Friday or to some 
near points later than Thursday. Many express 
offices are closed on Sunday and for this reason 
shipments should be started to reach destination 
not later than Saturday. 

While most raisers fill orders carefully and 
promptly yet there are others who seem to think 
customers can wait. The latter seem to think 
that as they have the money the customer can 
wait until it suits their convenience to ship. If 
for any reason an order can not be filled for a 
couple of days v.rite the party. In fact it is busi- 
ness to acknowledge all orders as soon as re- 
ceived stating that same are being shipped and 
how (by what express) or will be on a certain 
date. 

As already shown, the business is one that 
can be enlarged or expanded, as the demand so 
far has generally been much greater than the 
supply. When conditions are the reverse, that 
is, when the supply is larger than the demand, 
tlie most successful must not only know how to 
raise ferrets but must be a fairly good business 



176 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

man, one who answers correspondence promptly 
and sees that orders are gotten out quickly. A 
seller of this kind is always given the preference. 
In connection with How to Sell Ferrets the 
^'how" of the future is going to be much more 
difficult than the *4iow" of the past when there 
was little or no effort required to sell. There is 
no better place to explain than right here, that 
of those in the business but few could be classed 
as good business men, although they may, and 
most of them do, know ferret raising and han- 
dling almost to perfection. Selling, in a few 
years, when more are engaged in the business 
and the number of ferrets offered for sale yearly 
is tens of thousands greater, will be a much 
harder problem than during the past when they 
really sold themselves. 

If you are in the ferret business or expect to 
raise and sell, remember that those who buy, re- 
ceiving prompt and courteous treatment are apt 
to tell their neighbors and friends. In this way 
a raiser's reputation becomes known far and 
wide and his business flourishes. How about a 
raiser and seller who does not look after his cor- 
respondence promptly, misrepresents or delays 
shipment, days or may be weeks? When a party 
orders a ferret or ferrets he naturally expects his 
order to receive prom^^t attention. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

FERRETS AS FUR BEARERS. 

TEW buyers of American raw furs, so far, 
have quoted ferret skins on their price 
lists of furs. Some dealers quote the 
brown weasel 2 to 5 cents; rabbits, Avhole 
skins, 1 cent each. Squirrels, moles and wood- 
chucks (groundhogs) worthless. Squirrels, the 
American kind, have no fur — only hair — and 
same applies to the woodchuck. Moles have nice, 
soft fur but being such a small animal have here- 
tofore had no fur value although thousands have 
been yearly imported from Europe that appar- 
ently are no better than those inhabiting the 
United States. No doubt the American variety 
will in time have a fur value. 

In the early days beaver was the staple fur 
although bear, otter, fisher, marten, wolf, lynx, 
fox, mink, raccoon and muskrat were all ex- 
ported in quantities as early as 1750 but not un- 
til the year 1843 do records show that the com- 
mon house cat and chinchilla ( a South American 
animal) were exported. American opossum and 
fur seal were added a few years later, but not 
12 177 



178 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 



until 1858 was skunk fur used. Such being the 
facts, in connection with the fur trade, does it 
appear unreasonable that ferrets will soon be 
included in the list of fur bearing animals? 

In reply to letters of inquiry as to the fur 
value of ferrets two of the leading dealers in 
American raw furs located in New York City 
wrote as follows : 

^'In reply to 
yours beg to state 
that the ferret is 
the same animal as 
the European Fitch 
except that a prime 
fitch is heavier in 
fur. I have no 
doubt that tliey 

have been sold in Europe as Fitch but the best 
of them known as ^halbe' in other words 
^halves' bringing half price. Their value here 
has been nominally about 5 to 10 cents for the 
last ten years.'^ 

The other letter said: 

"It is our belief that ferrets, particularly tame 
or raised, would hardl^^ serve as even an imita- 
tion of European Fitch. While both are almost 
of one species the Stone and Baum Marten are 




THE EUROPEAN FITCH-BROWN. 



FERRETS AS FUR BEARERS. 



179 




more closely re- 
lated to Fitch 
w li i c li is Avell 
furred, silky and 
fine in texture, 
much like a 

THE EUROPEAN FITCH— WHITE. yOUUg OpOSSUm. 

At any rate fer- 
rets would only be salable in lot quantities at 
probabl}^ no more than 10 to 20 cents average at 
any time.'' 

These letters really show that there is a 
market for the skins at the present time but at 
low price. The dealer who said that they would 
only be salable in lot quantities meant that where 
they were offered in lots say fifty and up they 
would sell better than if one or two only were 
offered at a time. 

In the spring of 1909 when my book Fur 
Farming was published it appeared to most 
people like a book upon a subject of very little 
importance. They could not realize or believe 
there was a field for fur farming. Later develop- 
ments have proven that there was, for during the 
years from 1909 to 1915 five editions were printed 
and sold. Maybe those that look upon the busi- 
ness of raising and selling ferrets as being of 
little importance would change their views if they 



180 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

knew more concerning it. Tens of thousands of 
dwellings in both city and country are made rat 
free because of ferrets to say nothing of their use- 
fulness about barns, nulls, elevators, stores and 
other buildings as well as along wliarfs and on 
vessels. They will clean a city dump of rats in 
short order. 

As already stated ferret pelts so far have not 
been quoted by many American fur dealers yet 
they generally allow a few cents for such pelts 
when they come in Avith other furs. In Europe 
the ferret, or a very similar animal knoAvn as 
fitch, has been used for many years by furriers. 
In America, no doubt, deahus and manufacturers 
in general will begin handling and listing the 
article when sufficient quantities are offered to 
justify. 

Ferret fur is 
somewhat like 
m a r t e n or 
mink, that is, 
as to, length. 

THE COMMON BROWN WEASEL. j^^''^'^^^ ^,"^'^ 'J^ 

the brown and white weasel (ermine) an animal 
which they somewhat resemble in both shape and 
size. The white weasel became quite an item 
in the fur trade a few years ago. Brown weasel 




FERRETS AS FUR BEARERS. 



181 



have been worth only a few cents each from the 
fur standpoint but are coming into more general 
use. The probable value of white weasel fur is 
from 1100,000 to |250,000 to the trappers of 
America yearly. The catch varies a good deal 
but is well up around 500,000 when price of this 
fur is high. Ferrets are larger, longer furred 
than weasel with a pelt apparently as well 
adapted to tanning and manufacturing, with 



t^tM 



SOME NICE FURRY AMERICAN FERRETS. 

wearing qualities better than some skins now 
used. As the fur bearing animals become scarcer 
and their pelts command higher prices the gen- 
eral use of ferret skins will, no doubt, soon be a 
reality. 

Some years white furs are most in demand; 
others black is wanted ; again brown may be the 
color in general demand. When ferret fur be- 
comes valuable the raiser can, if his supply is too 
large, kill off the color that commands best price. 



182 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Who knows how soon fashion's fancy flurry 
flames for ferret furs may turn? When it does 
and prices are as much or more than can be had 
for the animals for hunting purposes skins can 
be sold. The prime fur season extends from 
about the middle of November to February so 
that those not sold during summer, fall or early 
winter can be killed thus saving the expense of 
wintering and keeping until another season. 

Perhaps the principal reason that ferret fur 
has not been more generally used is that manu- 
facturers have not been able to secure the skins 
in large enough quantities to justify handling 
them. When dealers are assured that there are 
thousands of the skins awaiting a market it is 
reasonable to suppose that the pelts will be of 
value and quoted by all collectors, dealers and 
exporters same as mink, marten, ermine, musk- 
rat and skins of other animals having fur value. 

Not long since a certain manufacturer, in a 
large eastern city, began using common brown 
weasel for certain articles. He reported no 
trouble in selling the furs made from or trimmed 
with such. These furs looked nice and were sold 
at a moderate price. Ferret pelts are sure to 
come into general use and that soon. Why? 
Skunk fur was not of commercial value or used 
until 1858. The white weasel (ermine) prior to 



FERRETS AS FUR BEARERS. 183 

1900 was worth only about 10 cents but during 
the years of 1904-5 was worth fl.OO and later sold 
as high as |1.50 for the choicest skins. 

Ferret is undoubtedly the best furred pelt not 
now in general use. Brown weasel and the com- 
mon rabbit, both used to some extent, do not com- 
pare at all with ferret skins. While this article 
after it does come into use is not apt to command 
a fancy price or even a moderately high one, yet 
at 50 cents to fl.OO would offer an outlet should 
the market for live ones become overstocked, a 
condition which so far has never occurred. In 
fact the demand is usually greater than the sup- 
ply. Again the fur market would be a means of 
getting rid of any too old for hunters, etc. 

There is no denying that certain of the fur 
bearing animals are gradually being reduced in 
numbers. In fact such applies to nearly all 
species. On the other hand the use of furs has 
wonderfully increased of recent years. The hun- 
dreds of thousands of automobiles now in use 
mean more furs sold such as fur coats, muffs, 
gauntlets, robes, etc. Remember that no small 
per cent of the autos are in use winter as well 
as summer. Again America's population is in- 
creasing fast but the wild fur bearers are be- 
coming less. Many different kinds of fur skins 
now have a market value that did not a few years 



184 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

ago. No doubt were a bunch of several hundred 
prime ferret skins offered to some manufacturing 
furrier even now he would see their w^orth and 
buy. 

The ferret is in reality a fur-bearing animal, 
being known to the fur trade in Europe by the 
name of fitch. Remember that ferrets were 
brought to America from Europe where they 
were known as fitch or fitch-ferret. In other 
words the animal is called fitch in Europe and 
ferret in America. The fur is called fitch in 
Europe where upwards of 100,000 skins are used 
annually, although the price has been low. It 
may not be generally known, nevertheless it is a 
fact, that thousands of these skins are sent each 
year to this country. 

The fact that fitch or ferret (whichever name 
is used) are white and brown and that by cross- 
ing various colors or rather shades can be raised, 
should not be overlooked. This enables the 
breeder to raise the colors selling best. When 
the fur value reaches something like |1.00, even 
for best, they will offer money making possibili- 
ties, for the fur only, as two litters can be raised 
in a year. The raiser for fur will have a cash 
market for all produced and need not advertise 
to sell as is now necessary in most instances. 
Again the raiser for fur will find that the second 



FERRETS AS FUR BEARERS. 185 

litters can be bad mucb later tban wben breeding 
for bunting purposes. Ferrets attain full size, if 
well cared for, in tbree montbs. Allow four, and 
second litters born any time in September, will 
be grown by January. Most of tbe second litters 
will be born by August so tbat by December tbey 
will be ready to kill for pelts. 

One diificulty with second litters when raised 
for rats or rabbits is, that should the market be 
supplied, the expense of keeping another season 
will be considerable. With a market for fur any 
and all not sold for hunting can be killed, skinned 
and pelts sold. 

As various fur animals are becoming more 
scarce, ferret fur will gradually rise in price. 
The day perhaps is not far distant when hun- 
dreds of thousands of skins will be sold to the 
fur trade and at prices probably equal to what 
the live animals sell for now. Ferret pelts to the 
value of 11,000,000 yearly may be a reality soon. 



CHAPTER XX. 

FERRETS — A TO Z. 

^S I have been in the ferret business for 
over ten years I will give a description 
of the use and care of this little animal. 
The ferret is a native of Africa. They 
have been domesticated and raised in confine- 
ment a great many years. It is a slim, wiry, 
muscular animal and can kill animals much 
larger than itself. They resemble the mink and 
weasel in shape and size, having long slim 
bodies, small heads and pointed noses. Having 
very flexible bodies, they can enter very small 
holes and follow rats in the most difficult places. 
Their natural disposition is to hunt, drive 
and kill their own living. They are keen scented 
and upon smelling rats or other game will enter 
the hole at once to kill them. Rats will run for 
their lives as soon as a ferret approaches, and 
being very cautious, will not stay about a place 
where ferrets are kept and worked. They are 
very valuable for. field hunting as well as killing 
rats. 

Ferrets are very tame and can be carried in 
the pocket and handled with the bare hands to 

186 



FERRETS — A TO Z. 



187 



chase out rabbits from all manner of burrows 
and hiding places. When they are let loose they 
are very active and always want to be on the 
move. They are of two colors, white and brown. 
The white ones have pink eyes and are called the 
English ferret and the brown ones have dark 
eyes and are called the Fitch ferret. 




A BUNCH OF CONTENTED FERRETS. 



There is no difference in the two varieties as 
to their breeding and working qualities — only a 
matter of fancy as to color. They are hardy, 
strong animals and breed well in any climate. 
The average life of the ferret is from five to eight 
years. 



188 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Ill breeding, always use strong, active, healthy 
and hardy animals. Never breed from weak and 
sickly parents or from bad workers. Always try 
to have breeders that are good workers and are 
the true ferret type. Avoid inbreeding as much 
as possible. They must be wintered well if you 
expect to get a good, strong litter of young. 

The average litter is from six to ten, but they 
have been known to have fifteen or eighteen, but 
such a large litter is only heard of once in a great 
Avhile. As a rule, they will breed and raise two 
litters of young in a season. I had one female 
that I bred the third time. In the breeding sea- 
son each male should be kept in a pen by himself, 
as they will fight if they get together. 

Watch each female for developments. When 
you find her ready to mate, place her with the 
male and leave for a day. You will have no 
trouble in telling when she is ready to mate, as 
she will remain in that condition for from one to 
two Aveeks. Each female should have a pen to 
herself for two weeks before she has her young. 
Use wheat straw or fine grass for the nest boxes. 
The female carries her young for forty-two days. 

The young are born with their eyes shut and 
will remain that way for about four or five 
weeks. When you look at the young, do it when 
the old one is feeding. When the young are large 



FERRETS — A TO Z. 189 

enough to come out and eat, they can be weaned 
and in about ten days the old ferret will be ready 
to breed again for the second litter. 

Feeding is one of the most important 
branches of breeding, rearing and working of 
ferrets. The greater part of the success depends 
on the proper feeding. The staple food is cooked 
graham mush, fresh meat and sweet milk. Bread 
and milk and meat is all right if you only have 
a few. A matured ferret can be kept in good, 
thrifty condition on mush or bread and milk, as 
meat is not an absolute necessity. When feeding 
meat in warm weather, feed only a little at a 
time. Do not feed salty or diseased, rotten meat, 
as salt and refuse will kill them. Feed the old 
ones twice a day, about what they will eat each 
time, with meat two or three times a week. 

When feeding young ones it is best to feed 
three times a day the amount they will eat up 
clean and no more. Bread and milk is the best 
food for the young. A little meat two or three 
times a week will do no harm. Use good judg- 
ment in feeding and you will lose very few. 

Ferrets are naturally tame and with just a 
little handling will become as tame as kittens. 
Never grab a ferret as he is coming out of a hole, 
for if you don't get him the first time, he will 
become shy; let him come clear out of the hole 



190 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIED. 

and then when you do reach him, be sure that 
you get him the first time. Better wait a few 
minutes for it than to have a shy ferret. 

They are old enough to work on rabbits when 
three months old and for rats when about six 
months old. Any ferret will hunt and drive rab- 
bits from their burrows and come out after they 
have driven the game out, so you can pick them 
up. That is all one could desire. Any ferret 
will do this without training. 

It is natural for them to hunt, drive and kill 
and it is just as natural for the rabbit to be 
afraid of them and so it takes a hike at once. 
Ferrets will drive out rats, rabbits, mink, go- 
phers and weasels, and some claim to have 
ferrets that will drive out vskunks. 

When you train a young ferret with a har- 
ness on, the first burrow you put him in, if there 
is a rabbit in it, have your partner catch the rab- 
bit at the other end of the burrow and hold the 
rabbit in the hole until the ferret gets hold of 
it. In a lesson or two the ferret will be a No. 1 
and work good ever after. If a ferret works 
good on rabbits he will soon learn to kill and 
hunt rats, etc. 

The breeding) season of ferrets is from March 
to September and I have heard that they some- 
times breed as early as February. Those who 



FERRETS — A TO Z. 



191 



breed ferrets are many and differently situated 
and no general rule will apply to all. 

The main thing in hutch or pen building is 
to make a comfortable home for them and to be 
so constructed that cleanliness of all the aj)art- 




TWO OLD FERRETS AT BREAKFAST. 



ments can easily be attended to at any time. 
The next thing to look after is to have a dry 
place to build and have them so arranged that 
they can be properly ventilated in the summer 
and closed in the winter. You cannot succeed in 
raising ferrets if you have a damp place for their 



192 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

hutches — dryness and warmth are the principal 
points to be observed. 

A good size for a hutch is four feet long, 
three feet wide and thirty inches high. Take a 
box about twelve or fourteen inches square and 
make a hole in one end about four inches square 
and then place this box in the large pen, which 
is used as a nest box ; this size pen will be about 
right for three or four ferrets but if you are 
going to raise ferrets by the 100 or 1,000, larger 
hutches will be in demand for an old ferret and 
her young. 

I make a pen five feet long, three feet wide 
and thirty inches high and then get some one- 
fourth, one-half or one-inch mesh woven wire 
and put on the bottom of the pen and all the 
droppings, etc., goes through the wire so that the 
pen is always dry. I would advise putting some 
good wheat straw on the wire and have a good 
nest box twelve or fourteen inches square in one 
corner of the pen. I also have wire in one end 
of the pen and have a flap of a piece of oilcloth 
in front to drop down should it rain or storm. 
This is a good pen for all-round use for those 
who only raise a few ferrets. I would advise you 
to have the pen raised about three inches off the 
ground and keep in a good, dry place. 



FERRETS — A TO Z. 193 

If the pens or boxes in which ferrets are con- 
fined are not kept free from dampness and filth, 
the ferrets will become infected with a sort of 
scurvy, called foot rot. A thick scab forms on 
the feet and tail. If the case is not attended to, 
the toe nails grow long and become dr}^ and 
dead. The cure is very simple. Dip the affected 
parts in coal oil every few days until the disease 
is checked and killed; the scab comes off. If the 
toe nails are grown out, all the dead nail shoukl 
be trimmed off; the nails will then grow out 
again and the feet will be as sound as ever. 
Three or four applications of coal oil usually 
effects a cure. 

Sometimes it will be noticed among ferrets 
that their fur does not look clean and bright and 
on closer examination it will be seen that the 
hair is matted together and the skin looks red 
and is throwing off a sort of red dandruff. If it 
is not attended to, you will notice in a short time 
that the hair will come off and reveal a dark col- 
ored scab or sort of a spongy growth. This dis- 
ease is caused by filthy pens, etc. A simple 
remedy that will cure this disease is coal oil. 
Usually three or four applications will effect a 
cure. When using the remedy on young ferrets, 
it should.be put on with a brush; this can be 

13 



194 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

dipped in the coal oil and applied to all the 
affected parts. 

Swelled throat or lump jaw can hardly be 
called a disease, as it sometimes makes its 
appearance among the best kept ferrets. The 
cause appears to be unknown. Some breeders 
call it a boil caused from ferrets that are thin 
and in poor condition and have impure blood. 
The first you will notice, perhaps, will be that 
the ferret will not come out to eat at feeding 
time; upon examination you will find that the 
throat has a hard sweeling or boil which will 
become soft or ripe. Now provide yourself with 
a sharp knife or other instrument and lance this 
swelling or boil, squeeze and press all the matter 
and blood out that you can. Then it would be 
well to inject with a small syringe, or dropper, 
some alcohol. If the cut closes up and matter 
forms again, open it as before. Generally the 
swelling subsides and the cut heals up with only 
one treatment. I would advise you not to keep 
this ferret's young for breeders ; neither would I 
keep him or her for that purpose, as we can't be 
too careful in selecting our stock for breeding 
purposes. 

Distemper cannot strictly be called a ferret 
disease. It occurs among dogs and once in 
a while the ferret contracts it from the dogs in- 



FERRETS — A TO Z. 195 

fected with it, running around the pens. When 
it is known that the dogs in the neighborhood are 
infected with distemper, it is best not to let 
strange dogs run about the ferret pens. I know 
of one breeder who lost all but one of his ferrets 
with distemper this season and the one that had 
it and lived was in the pen with the others that 
died, but pulled through all right and raised a 
litter of young in the same pen. 

The symptoms of the disease are as follows : 
The ferret refuses to eat and the eyes become 
swollen, the lids being stuck together with a 
peculiar sort of matter; the nose becomes 
swollen and inflamed, and the eyes will discharge 
a watery fluid; sometimes the nostrils will be- 
come closed and the animal dies — apparently 
from suffocation. Some authorities say that 
with healthy, well kept ferrets, this disease sel- 
dom makes its appearance. 

As soon as this disease is noticed among the 
ferrets, the infected ones should be placed quite 
a distance apart from the others. A quantity 
of good disinfectant should be procured and 
sprayed generously about the pens. A few drops 
of sulphuric acid which can be obtained at any 
drug store, placed in the milk, has been thought 
to be of avail in checking the disease. 



196 



FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 




FERRETS — A TO Z. 197 

Fleas never trouble ferrets if the pens or 
boxes are cleaned out often. Fleas breed in old 
chaff and straw which has been left unchanged 
too long in the pens. If fleas appear in the pen 
or box, it should be thoroughly cleaned at once. 
If ground floors are used, it is best to remove a 
quantity of dirt. The pens should be sprayed 
with a good disinfectant which can be secured at 
any drug store. The ferrets should be dusted 
with some good insect powder. When the pens 
are supplied with fresh clay and dry bedding, 
they will be in condition again for the ferrets 
and if the bedding is changed often and no chaff 
or litter is allowed to remain in the pens, the 
fleas will disappear. 

Young ferrets, while they are yet in the nest, 
sometimes become afflicted with a form of sweat- 
ing; this occurs when the mother ferret covers 
the young too deep in the nest in the straw. It 
affects the young while they are in the nest and 
nursing. They are subject to this from the time 
they are a month old until cold weather in the 
fall or until they are about four or five months 
old; and in fact, at any age of their life, if the 
conditions are favorable to produce sweating. 

First, you will notice that the little fellows 
will be wet or damp about the head and neck 
and if you allow them to keep on sweating they 



198 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

will soon die. To remedy this, take a part of the 
nest or bedding away from the ferrets and they 
will soon be all right again; also be sure and 
give them a good circulation of fresh air. 

Ferrets, like nearly all other animals, are 
sometimes affected with sore eyes. We have 
concluded that it is nothing more than a cold. 
This may be caused by changing them from a 
tight to an airy pen in the cool weather, etc. 
You will notice that their eyes are running and 
sometimes it is so bad that they are stuck to- 
gether so the ferret cannot get them open. Give 
them a good washing with soap and water and 
apply vaseline or some other mild ointment ; coal 
oil is a good remedy for sore eyes. Apply with a 
brush or cloth ; put it on freely until the eyes are 
so the ferret can get them open naturally. If 
they become sticky and close up again, keep on 
with the coal oil as it is sure to cure them. 

H. M. Staver, 
Stephenson Co., Illinois. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 

FERRETS like other ani- 
mals, including dogs and pet 
stock, as well as horses, cattle, 
sheep and hogs, are subject to 
disease. These are few — no 
more than most animals are 
liable to, but being virulent 
(virus) are mostly contagious. 
Distemper, foot rot and mange 
are the worst. Swelled neck or 
jaw, and insects, while they are 
to be contended with, are not 
so serious. Some claim that 
"sweating'' is distemper in a 
different form but whether a 
different disease or only a different form, it will 
receive mention a little further on. 

Although ferret diseases generally make their 
appearance in mild form, remember that if not 
attended to promptly, will not only result in 
death to the one first afllicted but will spread to 
others. Any and all sick should be removed sev- 
eral hundred feet from the others if possible. 

199 




200 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

The sick had best be kept separate — no two to- 
gether. True, disease is sometimes fatal, but 
what animal or fowl is exempt from disease and 
death? The average age must be considered, 
which is only about three years. 

Breeders and raisers of ferrets who have had 
years of experience say that nearly all diseases 
are caused by over or improper feeding and 
allowing hutches or boxes where kept to become 
filthy. The sleeping quarters and nest must be 
dry or attacks of distemper or other disease is 
apt to occur. A draft or current of air, from a 
window or other opening, has often caused death, 
as ferrets are very susceptible to cold. 

Carelessness in allowing the living quarters 
to remain uncleaned of droppings, sour dishes, 
with possibly foul nests, either or all may lead to 
an outbreak or epidemic of disease. Yes, there 
are remedies (more or less effectual) which are 
explained under the various diseases, yet sick 
animals are hard to doctor and the best way to 
cure disease is to prevent it. 

Distemper. — Although not strictly a ferret 
disease, yet it is one of the most fatal to ferrets. 
Distemper is a very common disease among dogs, 
from which animal ferrets will contract it, as 
well as from other sources already mentioned. 
The symptoms of the disease are : The ferret will 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 201 

refuse its food; dullness comes over it and the 
eyes may become swollen, lids stuck together 
with a peculiar sort of matter ; nose swollen and 
inflamed; it may sweat and shiver at the same 
time. If removed from the nest it will probably 
bow its back and stagger when it tries to walk, 
often falling over in thq attempt. You will also 
notice a heavy dullness of eyes, which become 
swollen. As the disease advances, the head is 
apt to swell and an offensive running discharge 
issues from eyes and nostrils. This discharge is 
sticky, closing the eyes. They must receive at- 
tention or death is sure to follow and that soon. 
In the earlier stages the treatment is first to 
wash the animal in lukewarm water and soap. 
Eub until thoroughly dry with a flannel cloth, 
then place in a warm, dry nest with plenty of 
bedding. Look at it occasionally or if it is cold 
or chilling, cover or wrap in warm flannels. 
After being washed give 10 or 12 drops of whis- 
key in warm, sweet milk. Ferrets not severely 
attacked will show improvement within twenty- 
four hours. If no better at the end of that time, 
repeat both the washing and dose of whiskey. 
The eyes and nostrils should receive attention 
first, by bathing in water slightly warm, until 
cleaned of the sticky matter. After the animal 
is thoroughly dry, apply vaseline to the nostrils 



202 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

and eyes, then replace in the hutch. In an hour 
or two give 10 to 15 drops of castor oil (depend- 
ing upon size of ferret) followed by a feed of 
warm milk to which wheat bread, crackers or 
still better graham mash (see chapter on Feed- 
ing and Management) may be added, letting the 
ferret eat all it will. If it will not eat of its own 
accord, it is advisable to feed a small quantity 
with a simoon a few times each day. 

One breeder says that he has found a few 
drops of sulphuric acid, which can be bought at 
any drug store, placed in the milk beneficial in 
checking the disease. Another recommends chlo- 
rate of potash in milk, the usual dose being 2 
grains twice a day. 

Food should be given four or more times daily 
to ferrets afflicted with distemper. Warm milk 
is about as good as anything. Each day as long 
as there is any discharge from eyes or nose, they 
must be washed and vaseline applied as already 
explained. 

Distemper, when diarrhoea sets in, is very 
apt to prove fatal. In early fall, about first 
frost, is the time that many die, especially if not 
in good health. If ferrets are in poor condition, 
that is, thin in flesh, feed more meat and a little 
sulphur in their milk. Meat will stop the 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 203 

flux or diarrhoea, providing no otlier ailment 
accompanies. 

Sweating. — European raisers are of the be- 
lief that sweat or sweating is a certain stage of 
the disease known as distemper, while most 
American raisers think it an entirely different 
disease. In Europe where they are all classed as 
one and the same, they are described as follows : 
Distemper, sweat or the sweating sickness, is a 
malady identical with distemper in dogs, usually 
attacking young ferrets near the time they first 
open their eyes or gain their sight. As a rule, 
with healthy ferrets, it takes a mild form; but 
with poor ones, improperly fed, or otherwise not 
in good condition it is apt to be serious and very 
contagious. With healthy stock a change of 
food and a cleaning of their nests with fresh and 
clean bedding supplied, will generally be all that 
is required. If the sweating keeps up it leads to 
heaviness and dullness, food untouched. The 
condition and treatment in Europe are much the 
same as explained for the disease known as dis- 
temper in America. 

A breeder and successful ferret raiser, lo- 
cated in Central Illinois, gives the following 
description of sweating and the method of treat- 
ing: "Young ferrets while they are yet in the 
nest sometimes become affected with a form of 



204 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

sweating. This occurs when the mother ferret 
covers the young too deep in the nest with straw. 
The whole litter becomes wet and sort of gummed 
up, so to speak, and is affected with a touch of 
white scours. This trouble never arises until the 
ferrets are a few weeks old. The loss from this 
is small, as only an occasional litter becomes 
affected in this way. When a litter becomes 
sweated it is best to remove the nest box from 
the pen. If the mother ferret is still inclined to 
pile straw over the nest to hide the ferrets, all 
the coarse straw^ should be taken out of the pen. 
That gives the young ferrets a chance to spread 
out and dry off. If an affected litter is treated 
in this way, as a rule they will be saved. I have 
tried washing the young ferrets and then rub- 
bing them dry. This does not do any good. The 
conditions must be made right, as has just been 
described, and the little ferrets will dry off and 
clean up in a few days' time. If there( is a litter 
which numbers too many in a nest, it is best to 
give a part of the litter to other mother ferrets 
which have litters of the same size and age, but 
fewer in number.'' 

Foot Rot. — This disease is one easily pre- 
vented, seldom occurring where the ferrets are 
well kept and cared for. The disease affects fer- 
rets much the same as similar disease in sheep or 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 205 

other stock. The disease is really one of the 
worst ferret maladies, for even when cured, after 
effects or marks are left. The most prolific cause 
is putting ferrets away with dirty feet after 
being worked on rabbits, rats, other pests or 
game. Wet weather or working where ground is 
wet or damp are especially hard on ferrets. Just 
as soon as through using they should receive at- 
tention. Pens, boxes, hutches, or whatever fer- 
rets are in, must be kept dry and clean, as damp- 
ness and filth will bring on this disease. Some 
claim that putting wire netting or perforated 
zinc in bottom of hutches is another cause. 

Toes and claws of ferrets may become clogged 
with fine grass and dirt, which if not removed, 
will cause the feet to become sore, scabs form, 
the claws, or toe nails become dry and long, feet 
may swell to more than double the natural size. 
In time the tails become afflicted in much the 
same manner as the feet. 

Symptoms of foot rot are easily discovered. 
The toes around the claws are sore and soon be- 
come feverish. The divisions, or joints, above 
the toes also become afflicted and proud flesh 
forms, feet swelling. The tail also becomes af- 
fected showing much the same symptoms as the 
feet. 



206 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Treatment varies owing to bow far the dis- 
ease lias advanced. The most successful and 
prosperous horse, cattle, sheep or swine raiser 
watches* his stock closely. The same applies to 
the ferret raiser. If discovered and taken in 
hand early, washing in soft soap and water will 
probably remove the scabby formation, which is 
all that is necessary. Now wash the feet with 
water only and then apply a mixture of equal 
parts of turpentine and powdered sulphur. If 
this does no good, in a few days, or the disease 
is getting worse, then the following treatment 
should be used: Apply turpentine twice daily 
for three, four or five days; then petroleum 
(lamp oil) once a day for two or three days ; then 
wash their feet with soap and water as the object 
is to get the scabs off. If the scabs do not come 
off after a week from first application of turpen- 
tine, it is best that they be removed. Some still 
apply turpentine and lamp oil after scabs come 
off. Others wash daily in a strong solution of 
sulphur and copper, followed by an application 
of vaseline until completely cured. 

A Western breeder and raiser who has been 
quite successful, comments upon this disease as 
follows : ^'If the pens or boxes in which ferrets 
are confined are not kept free from dampness 
and filth, the ferrets will become affected with a 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 207 

sort of scurvy called foot rot. A thick, spongy 
scab forms on the feet and the end of the tail. 
If the case is not attended to, the toe nails grow 
long and become dry and dead. The cure is very 
simple. Dip the affected parts in coal oil every 
few days until the disease is checked and killed. 
The scab then comes off. If the toe nails are 
grown out all the dead nails should be trimmed 
off. The nails will then grow out again and the 
feet will be as sound as ever. A mixture of sul- 
phur and lard, to which a little turpentine has 
been added, makes a good dope for this disease 
and will cure it more quickly than the coal oil. 
Three or four applications, however, of either of 
the above remedies will effect a cure.'' 

The worse disease contracted by the old fer- 
rets, according to a New York state raiser, is 
foot rot, which can be cured with turpentine, coal 
oil or peroxide of hydrogen applied twice a day. 
I also find that out of the first litter, several gen- 
erally die, as the old one is not experienced in 
taking care of them. 

I have had ferrets with what is called foot 
rot, writes an Iowa party. This is caused by not 
keeping their pens clean and letting filth and 
dampness accumulate. It is a very hard disease 
to cure and is contagious. It is much easier to 
prevent the disease than to cure it. When one is 



208 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

detected with it, they should be immediately put 
to themselves and their feet washed with good 
soap and warm water each day and thoroughly 
dried. Now grease them with a good ointment 
until they become healed and the scabs come off. 
Their pens should be thoroughly cleaned. 

Mange. — This disease is generally alluded to 
as mange, although sometimes called scurvy or 
scab. The disease is practically the same as in 
dogs and either dog or ferret may contract it 
from the other. The symptoms are: A slight 
reddish eruption, of irritating effect, located usu- 
ally upon the back and sides. The ferret 
scratches or bites these and sores and scabs form. 
One remedy is Spratt's Mange Lotion, 2 ounces 
mixed with 2 ounces of glycerine. Another rem- 
edy thought to be much better is : Resin oint- 
ment 3 ounces; sublimate sulphur 1 ounce; oil 
of juniper 1 ounce; sweet oil 2 ounces. This 
when mixed makes a creamy ointment. All fer- 
rets afflicted with mange must be washed, dried 
and then this ointment applied for three or four 
days. 

One man who has handled thousands of fer- 
rets describes mange as being similar to foot rot 
but making its appearance on the head and ears, 
which becomes red and irritated. In a short time 
the hair becomes matted, loose and falls out. 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 209 

Unless receiving treatment a scab forms wliicli 
will extend over the entire head and body. A 
simple remedy is to wash with fine (good) soap 
and warm water, then apply turpentine. This 
treatment daily, a few times, is usually sufficient. 
Sleeping or lying in wet or filthy nests is largely 
the cause. 

A raiser, who at times has thousands of 
young ferrets, in alluding to this malady, which 
others call mange or scurvy, says that in plain 
words it is foot rot and the disease is usually 
caused by filth or damp pens. The first you will 
notice will be scabs on the tail, extending in some 
cases over the entire body. Cases of this char- 
acter, if not taken care of, extend to the feet, 
then take longer to cure. A good cure is made 
by taking fresh lard, mix with sulphur, thin 
with turpentine, then add a few^ drops of carbolic 
acid. Rub this mixture on the affected parts 
once a day until they are cleaned off. Now clean 
the pens and give fresh bedding, take a little 
better care of your ferrets and you will have no 
further trouble. 

Another party who has been in the business 
for a good many years says : "Sometimes it will 
be noticed among ferrets that their fur does not 
look clean and bright. On close examination it 
will be seen that the skin is red and is throwing 

*14 



210 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

off a sort of red dandruff. This is a light form 
of scurvy and seldom effects any but young and 
growing ferrets. The treatment is the same as in 
foot rot, only it would injure the young ferrets 
to dip them in coal oil or turpentine. It is a 
good plan to use a stiff brush. This can be 
dipped in the coal oil and applied to all the 
affected parts. This works a little oil into the 
skin and when it is done carefully it does not 
injure the ferret. One application usually cleans 
off all the scurvy and leaves the ferret in good 
condition." 

Lump Jaw. — This disease is just a common 
boil which comes on the head, jaw or neck of the 
ferret. If ferrets are kept in a thrifty condition, 
they are seldom affected in this way. If they 
become thin and in a poor condition, the blood 
becomes impure and the boils appear. When the 
boil comes on the head or jaw, it usually lasts 
only a short time ; but when it is deep-seated on 
the neck and is of the order of a tumorous growth 
there is but little that can be done for it. When 
it is discovered that a ferret is affected in this 
way, it should be watched closely and as soon as 
the lump comes to a head and gets soft, it should 
be cut open and the pus squeezed out. Some 
cases may need this treatment repeated several 
times. The ferret should be placed in a pen by 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 2H 

itself and it is a good plan to add a little sulphur 
to its food. If it is fed nourishing food and gets 
fat and in strong condition, the lump will usually 
disappear, leaving the ferret all right again. 

Lump jaw, according to another breeder, is a 
small swelling noticed on the side of the neck 
just under the jaw. Sometimes this will be grad- 
ually growing for weeks or months before coming 
to a head. When it is ripe the hair will all come 
off from the center and it will be soft to the 
touch ; then take a small penknife and stick the 
point in the center of the abscess until the pus 
starts, then press with thumb and finger until 
you get all the pus out that you can ; then syringe 
out with a solution of carbolic acid, then wash 
wound with good soap and water. Keep scab 
greased with ointment. This will usually effect 
a cure. I have had cases where the abscess would 
form the second time, and when it does it usually 
proves fatal. 

Sore Eyes. — The breeder, raiser, or keeper of 
many or few ferrets only must keep in mind that 
these animals are much more susceptible to cold 
than most of the furred animals. Ferrets take 
cold easily and the eyes are sometimes affected, 
often being entirely closed with sticky matter. 
Wash with warm water until they can be opened 
and then apply vaseline. 



212 FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

Ticks. — In the Southern and Central States 
ticks will be much worse than farther to the 
north, where they are not so numerous or none at 
all. Much of the ferret's actual work is apt to be 
in tick infested places. While one, two or even 
more will only sap a little of the ferret's blood, 
yet they should not be allowed to remain on the 
ferret. It is not best to pull them off but to 
apply a mixture of 1 part parafftnc to 8 of sweet 
oil, whicli will either kill or cause the tick to 
back out. 

Lice and Fleas. — Unless nests and nesting 
are changed frequently and ferret hutches and 
sheds cleaned and disinfectants used occasion- 
ally, owners are apt to find their stock bothered 
with these insects. While they will not kill ani- 
mals, yet they should be gotten rid of. By spray- 
ing a ferret with spirits of camphor you will kill 
many of the insects. Those not killed will mostly 
be in such a condition that they can be readily 
combed out. The combing should be done over a 
kettel of boiling or very hot water. Ferrets liav- 
ing lice will require more than one spraying. The 
second should be about a week later to get rid of 
nits which have hatched in the meantime. A 
third spraying a week or ten days after the sec- 
ond may be necessary. Sleeping quarters will 
also need attentioir. The mixture of paraffine 



DISEASES OF FERRETS. 213 

and sweet oil as recommended for ticks can be 
used for these insects with good results. 

A man who has been connected witli the fer- 
ret industry for many years thinks fleas are one 
of the worst things that the ferret breeder has to 
contend with. He says : ^'These vermin will sap 
the life out of ferrets and bother the man who 
takes care of them. If ferrets are kept on ground 
floors, it will be hard to get rid of them after they 
once get a start. What to do : Take Minor's 
Fluid (sold by druggists), 1 part of fluid to 50 
parts of water; wet pens and nest boxes, dip 
ferrets into the same mixture; this will kill all 
tlie fleas it touches." 

Worms. — If not properly fed, that is, right 
kind of food given, ferrets will suffer to a con- 
siderable extent from worms. A good remedy is 
3 grains of finely-powdered areca nut given in 
their milk three hours apart. A half hour after 
each dose of areca give 5 to 6 drops of castor oil. 

The ferret raiser who is careful and watchful, 
keeping nests changed and otherwise seeking to 
prevent disease, may go along for years without 
a single one of the ailments to which ferrets are 
heir to, attacking his stock. 

A party who never succeds at anything thinks 
that ferrets are a very uncertain animal to keep, 
being liable .to die with no apparent cause, as 



214 PERRET FACTS AND FANCIES. 

they are to live. He further says: "One may 
leave them brisk and seemingly all right at night 
and the next morning they may be dead. About 
two or three years is the average age, although I 
have kept them for eight or nine years, but that 
is rare." 

Remember that wild animals in captivity 
must be watched and cared for. Those who know 
the nature and habits of the ferret and are quick 
to understand their wants will be successful rais- 
ers. On the other hand some will fail, the same 
as in all branches of business. Such failures are 
due largely, however, to the individual and not to 
the business. The same applies to the ferret 
industry. 




Steel Traps 

Describes the various makes and tells how to use 

them. Also chapters on Care of Pelts, etc., 

by A. R. Harding. 

This book contains 333 pages, 5x7 inches and 130 illus- 
trations, printed on good quality heavy paper. Just the 
book that trappers have long needed -gives the history 
of Steel Traps, how made, sizes for the various animals 
w'th detailed instructions on where and how to set. 
Ihis book contains thirty-two chapters as follows: 



1 Sewell Newhouse 

2 Well Made Traps 

3 A Few Failures 

4 Some European Traps 

5 Proper Sizes 

6 Newliouse Traps 

7 Double and Webbed 

Jaws 

8 Victor and Hawley & 

Norton 

9 Jump Traps 
10 Tree Traps 



H Stop Thief Traps 

12 Wide Spreading Jaws 

13 Caring for Traps 

14 Marking: Traps 

15 How to Fasten 

16 How to Set 

17 Where to Set 

18 Looking at Traps 

19 Mysteriously Sprung 

Traps 

20 Good Dens 

21 The Proper Bait 



22 Scent and Decoy 

23 Human Scent and Sign 

24 Hints on Fall Trapping 

25 Land Trapping 

26 Water Trapping 

27 When to Trap 

28 Some Deep Water Sets 

29 Skinning & Stretching 

30 Handling and Grading 

31 From Animal to Market 

32 Miscellaneous Informa- 

tion 



No difference what fur-bearer you wish to trap, best methods of its cap- 
ture are described. Cloth, 60 cents. 



Deadfalls and Snares 

A Book of Instructions for Trappers about 

these and other home made Traps 

by A. R. Harding. 

This book contains 232 pages, size 5x7 inches, and 84 
drawings and illustrations, printed on good heavy paper. 
The most complete book on how to make "home-made" 
traps ever published. The book contains twenty-eight 
chapters as follows: 






1 Building Deadfalls 

2 Bear and Goon Dead- 

fall 

3 Otter Deadfall 

4 Marten Deadfall 

5 Stone Deadfall 

6 The Bear Pen 

7 Portable Traps 

8 Some Triggers 

9 Trip Triggers 



10 How to Set 

11 When to Build 

12 Where to Build 

13 The Proper Bait 

14 Traps Knocked Off 

15 Spring Pole Snare 

16 Trail Set Snare 

17 Bait Set Snare 

18 The Box Trap 

19 The Coop Trap 



20 The Pit Trap 

21 Number of Traps 

22 When to Trap 

23 Season's Catch 

24 General Information 

25 Skinning and Stretch- 

ing 

26 Handling and Grading 

27 From Animal to Market 

28 Steel Traps 



Building Deadfalls and constructing Snares, as explained in this book, 
will be of value to trappers. Cloth bound, 60 cents. 

A. R. HARDING, 75 N. Ohio Ave., Columbus, Ohio 




Fox Trapping 

A Book of Instructions Telling How 

to Trap, Snare, Poison and Shoot. 

A Valuable Book for Trappers. 

Contains about 200 pages and 50 illustrations 
divided into Twenty-two Chapters as follows: 



1 General Information 

2 Baits and Scents 

3 Foxes and Odor 

4 ChafiE Method, Scent 

5 Traps and Hints 

6 All-round Land Set 

7 Snow Set 

8 Trapping Red Fox 

9 Red and Grey 



10 Wire and Twine Snare 

11 Trap, Snare, Shooting 

and Poison 

12 My First Fox 

13 Tennessee Trapper's 

Method 

14 Many Good Methods 

15 Fred and the Old Trap- 

per 



16 Experienced Trapper 

Tricks 

17 Reynard Outwitted 

18 Fox Shooting 

19 A Shrewd Fox 

20 Still Hunting the Fox 

21 Fox Ranches 

22 Steel Traps 



If all the methods as given in this book had been studied out by one man 
and he began trapping when Columbus discovered America more than four 
hundred years ago, he would not be half through. 

Cloth Bound 60c., Postage Included 




Mink Trapping 

A Book of Instructions Giving Many 
Methods of Trapping. A Val- 
uable Book for Trappers 

Contains nearly 200 pages and over 50 illustrations 
divided into Twenty Chapters as follows: 



1 General Information 

2 Mink and Their Habits 

3 Size and Care of Skins 

4 Good and Lasting Baits 

5 Bait and Scent 

6 Places to Set 

7 Indian Methods 

8 Mink Trapping on the Prairies 

9 Southern Metnods 
10 Northern Methods 



11 Unusual Ways 

12 Illinois Trapper's Methods 

13 Experienced Trapper's Ways 

14 Many Good Methods 

15 Salt Set 

16 Log and Other Sets 

17 Points for the Young Trapper 

18 Proper Size Traps 

19 Deadfalls 

20 Steel Traps 



The methods as published are those of experienced trappers from all 
parts of the country. There is money made in catching mink if you know 
how. After reading this instructive book, you will surely know. If you 
only catch one more prime mink it will pay for the book several times. 

Cloth Bound 60c., Postage Included 

A. R. HARDING, 75 N. Ohio Ave., Columbus, Ohio 



FUR FARMING 

A Book of Information on Raising Fur-Bparing Animals. TelHn g 
all About Enclosures, Breeding. Feeding. Habits, Care, Etc. 

THIS book is now in its FIFTH EDITION. It is 
the recognized authority on raising all kinds 
of fur-bearing animals. All of the questions 
asked, or you may wish to know, are answered in 
detail in this book. It is the only guide for those 
who are contemplating the raising of fur-bearers 
for profit, and its accurate descriptions of the 
animals and their habits, when in the wild state, 
make it interesting and valuable to all. 

The information has been secured from reliable 
sources, mainly from those who have already 
raised the various animals. A part was taken 
from the United States Government reports of 
their investigations. 

Foxes— More than forty pages are devoted to foxes. The business of 
handling valuable foxes as carried on in Canada is explained. 

Mink— The chapter on Mink Raising is more complete than in the 
earlier editions and as well illustrates a minkery showing: 1st, floor plan; 
2nd, end view; 3rd, completed building. 

Marten— A chapter on Marten Raising has also been added. 

Skunk— This chapter contains 35 pages of information as well as 11 
illustrations. One of the illustrations shows skunk skins and how they 
are graded. Removing scent sacs is fully explained and illustrated by 
two drawings or diagrams showing the scent sacs and how far and 
where to cut to expose sacs and ducts. After looking at these and read- 
ing explanation anyone can easily remove the scent sacs. 

Chapter Headings— Read them and it will be seen at once that this 
is a very practical book, covering the subject of Fur Raising or Fur 
Farming thoroughly. Book contains 278 pages, 5x7 inches, printed on 
good paper, with 49 illustrations and drawings. The book contains 16 
chapters as follows: 




I. 


Supply and Demand 


IX. 


Mink Raising 


11. 


What Animals to Raise 


X. 


Opossum Raising 


111. 


Enclosures 


XI. 


Muskrat Raising 


IV. 


Laws Affecting Fur Farming 


XII. 


Raccoon Raising 


V. 


Box Trap Trapping 


XIII. 


The Beaver and the Otter 


VI. 


Fox Raising 


XIV. 


Marten Raising 


VII. 


Fox Rais'ng in Canada 


XV. 


Killing, Skinning & Stretching 


vm. 


Skunk Raising 


XVI. 


Deer Farming 



If you have ever thought of raising fur-bearing animals, better send 
for this book at once. Maybe after reading you will conclude to go into 
the business, for there has been money made at the business and will be 
for years to come by those who are suited to the industry —the book tells 
this and lots more. 

This book bound in cloth will be sent postpaid to any address for 60c. 

A. R. Harding, 75 N. Ohio Ave., Columbus, Ohio 




Chapter 



HUNTING DOGS 

Describes in a Practical Manner the Training, Handling, 

Treatment, Breeds, etc., Best Adapted for Night 

Hunting, as well as Gun Dogs for 

Daylight Sport. 

HIS book contains 253 pages, 5x7 
inches, 45 illustrations showing the 
various breeds, hunting scenes, etc. 

The author in his introduction says: 
"As if hunting for profit, night hunt- 
ing for either pleasure or gain and 
professional hunting generally had no 
importance, writers of books have 
contented themselves with dwelling 
on the study and presentation of mat- 
ters relating solely to the men who 
hunt for sport only. Even then the 
Fox Chase and Bird Hunting has 
been the burden of the greater per 
cent, of such books." 
Part One — Hunting Dogs. 

6. Wolf and Coyote Hunting 

7. Training— For Squirrels 
and Rabbits 

8. Training the Deer Hound 

9. Training — Specific Things 
to Teach 

10. Training— Random Sugges- 
tions from Many Sources 

Part II — Breeding and Care of Dogs. 

Chapter 14. Breeding (Continued) 

11. Selecting the Dog 15. Peculiarities of Dogs and 

12. Care and Breeding Practical Hints 

13. Breeding. 16. Ailments of the Dog. 

Part III — Dog Lore. 
Still Trailers vs. Tonguers. 18. The Dog on the Trap Line 
Music. 19. Sledge Dogs of the North 

Part IV — The Hunting Dog Family. 
American Fox Hound 24. Scotch Collies, House and 

The Beagle Dachshund 
and Basset Hound 25. 

Pointers and Setters — 

Spaniels 26. 

Terriers— Airedales 
The contents show the scope of this book and if you are at 
all interested in hunting dogs, you should have this work. The 
book is made up not only from the author's observation and 
experience, but that of scores of successful night as well as 
daylight hunters. This book will not interest the field trial 
dog men but is for the real dog men who delight in chases 
that are genuine. Price, cloth-bound, postpaid, 60c. 

A. R. HARDING, 75 N. Ohio Avenue, Columbus, Ohio 



17. 



21. 
22. 
23. 



Night Hunting 
The Night Hunting Dog 
— His Ancestry 
Training the Hunting Dog 
Training the Coon Dog 
Training for Skunk, Opos- 
sum and Mink 



Watch Dogs 

A Farmer Hunter — His 
Views 

Descriptive Table of Tech- 
nical Terms 



or . ~-$. 



SCIENCE OF TRAPPING 

Describes the Fur Betiring Animals, Their Nature, Habits 
and Distribution, with Practical Methods «( Their Capturec 

This book contains 245 pages, 5x7 inches, with more than 
40 illustrations, many of which are full page of the various fur 
bearing animals, also several 
pages of tracks. 

The author, Mr. E. Kreps, in 
his introduction says: "In order 
to be successful, one must know 
the wild animals as a mother 
knows her child. He must also 
know and use the most practical 
methods of trapping, and it is 
my object to give in this work, 
the most successful trapping meth- 
ods known. These modes of trap- 
ping the fur bearing animals have 
for the most part been learned 
from actual experience in various 
parts of the country, but I also 
give the methods of other success- 
ful trappers, knowing them to be 
as good as my own. _ I am per- 
sonally acquainted with some of 
the most expert trappers in North 
America, and have also followed 
trap lines, and in this way have learned 




the Indians over their „^ , __ _ . ^^ 

many things which to the white man are not generally known. 
This book contains twenty-four chapters, as follows: 

1. The Trapper's Art. 

2. The Skunk. 

3. The Mink. 

4. The Weasel. 



The Marten. 

The Fisher. 

The Otter. 

The Beaver. 

The Muskrat. 

The Fox. 

The Wolf. 

The Bear. 



IR. 


The Raccoon. 


14. 


The Badger. 


15. 


The Opossum, 


!fi. 


The Lynx. 


17. 


The Bay Lynx or Wild Cat. 


18. 


The Cougar. 


19. 


The Wolverine. 


20. 


The Pocket Gopher. 


81. 


The Rabbit. 


22. 


Tracks and Signs. 


?X 


Handling Furs. 


24. 


Steel Traps. 



The chapter on TRACKS AND SIGNS contains sixteen 
pages — eleven of description and five of illustrations. 

The author goes into detail, telling where the tracks and 
signs of the various animals are most apt to be found. This 
with an accurate drawing of the footprints, makes the chapter 
on TRACKS AND SIGNS alone worth dollars to the young 
and inexperienced trapper, while the distribution, nature,^ hab- 
its, etc., will prove interesting to all. This book is rightly 
named — Science of Trapping. 

Price, postpaid. Cloth Bound, 60 Cents 

A. R. HARDING, 75 N. Ohio Avenue, Columbus, Ohio 



Bee Hunting 

A BOOK OF VAI<UABI^:^ INFORMATION FOR BF^ 
HUNTFR9. Tells How to I/lne Bees to Trees, Ftc. 

The following is taken from the Authors 
Introduction to BEE HUNTING 




M 



ANY books on sports of various 
kinds have been written, but 
outside of an occasional article 
In periodicals devoted to bee litera- 
ture, but little has been written on 
the subject of Bee Hunting. There- 
fore, I have tried in this volume — 
Bee Hunting for Pleasure and Profit 
— to give A work in compact form, 
the product of what I have learned 
along this line during the forty 
years in nature's school room. 

Brother, if in reading these pages, 
you find something that will be of 
value to you, something that will 
inculcate a desire for manly pastime 
and make your life brighter, then 
my aim will hare been reached. 

The book contains 13 chapters as follows : 
I. Bee Httntiug. 
II, Farly Spring Hunting. 
III. Bee Watering— How to Find Them. 
IV. Hunting Bees from Sumac. 

Y. Hunting Bees from Buckwheat. 
VI. Fall Hunting. 
VII. Improved Mode of Burning. 
VIII. Facts About I^ine of Flight. 
IX. Baits and Scents. 

X. Cutting the Tree and Transferring. 
XI. Customs and Ownership of Wild Bess. 
XII. Benefactors and Their Inventions. 
XIII. Bee Keeping for Profit. 

This dock contains 80 pages, paper cover. 
Price, postpaid, only ass cents, 

A. R. Harding' Pub. Co., Columbus, Ohio 



